As the new year approaches, I've been hearing Pablo (from our host family) talk a lot about what colors to wear and what colors not to wear, especially when the midnight clock strikes twelve on New Year's Day.
Yellow--if you want financial prosperity in the new year, you should wear a yellow shirt. Many women, I am told but have no way of confirming this, also wear yellow underwear.
Red--to have lots of love in the new year, you should wear a red shirt and/or wear red underwear.
Blue and White--if you want peace and harmony in the new year, you should wear a blue shirt.
Black and Dark Purple--These are the two colors to be avoided because that's what you wear when family dies. If you wear one of these colors, someone in your family will die in the new year.
Other New Year's traditions/superstitions:
If you want to travel a lot in the new year, at midnight you should run around the block with a suitcase.
To fulfill all of your dreams in the new year you should eat twelve grapes (one for each month).
If you put a dollar bill (or any other denomination of paper money) in your shoe, you will have financial prosperity in the new year.
Probably the most celebrated New Year's tradition is that of the Año Viejo muñeco (doll/effigy of the old year). Pablo has been busily constructing two huge figures out of bamboo, wood scraps, plastic scraps, cardboard, tape and paper mâché. His effigies this year will represent the rival soccer teams Barcelona and (his team) EMELEC. The idea of the Año Viejo tradition is that you make an effigy representing someone that you love or that you hate, and then you burn the effigy to welcome the New Year. The idea is that you burn the bad of the old year and start the new with a blank slate. If you create an effigy of someone you love, it is an honor for them to be burned and it's supposed to bring that person good luck in the next year. Many in this town will line one of the main streets with their creations, and before burning them they will "beat all of the bad" out of them. Then everyone burns their effigies together, followed by a big party in a downtown park. Happy New Year!
Recent Family Picture
Tuesday, December 30, 2014
The Gingerbread House (Luisa)
A week before Christmas Ashanti told us she wanted to make a gingerbread house. We had never made a gingerbread house from scratch, we had always bought a pre-made gingerbread house from the farmer's market and just decorated it. But we decided it would be fun to try. We found a recipe on line but thought that it was too small to share with everybody so we decided to do a one and a half recipe. So we went to the store and bought the stuff to make it.
The Sunday before Christmas we made the dough and then put it in the fridge to set. And then on Wednesday, Christmas Eve, we rolled out the dough, cut the pieces and put it in the oven. As we took the pieces out of the oven and set them out to cool some of the bigger pieces broke but we knew that we could just use frosting to fix them later. Then we made the frosting. We put in the eggs and powdered sugar and mixed it up. But we decided it was too hard. So we put in a few more eggs but then it was too soft so we put in some more sugar also. Then we put it in baggies and put it in the fridge.
On Christmas Day we decided the gingerbread walls weren't dry enough and Ashanti decided she didn't want to work on the project anymore so Magdalena and I used frosting on a few to glue them together. Later that day we decided that they weren't going to harden just sitting out so we put them back in the oven. We took them out of the oven and they were harder so we thought it was going to be fine. We let them set again until Friday and we went to glue them together and one of the roof parts broke. So we glued the roof back together and put together the walls. They stayed up fine. But later that day as we were getting ready to put the roof on we realized that the walls were starting to fall over. So we put a wooden skewer to hold them up. We decided that the roof was too big and heavy and wasn't going to stay on the house so we decided to decorate it separately and not put it on. We decorated the house with the help of our friend Diana and set it out for people to see and to eat. And we figured out why people usually make houses in a smaller size rather than bigger.
The Sunday before Christmas we made the dough and then put it in the fridge to set. And then on Wednesday, Christmas Eve, we rolled out the dough, cut the pieces and put it in the oven. As we took the pieces out of the oven and set them out to cool some of the bigger pieces broke but we knew that we could just use frosting to fix them later. Then we made the frosting. We put in the eggs and powdered sugar and mixed it up. But we decided it was too hard. So we put in a few more eggs but then it was too soft so we put in some more sugar also. Then we put it in baggies and put it in the fridge.
On Christmas Day we decided the gingerbread walls weren't dry enough and Ashanti decided she didn't want to work on the project anymore so Magdalena and I used frosting on a few to glue them together. Later that day we decided that they weren't going to harden just sitting out so we put them back in the oven. We took them out of the oven and they were harder so we thought it was going to be fine. We let them set again until Friday and we went to glue them together and one of the roof parts broke. So we glued the roof back together and put together the walls. They stayed up fine. But later that day as we were getting ready to put the roof on we realized that the walls were starting to fall over. So we put a wooden skewer to hold them up. We decided that the roof was too big and heavy and wasn't going to stay on the house so we decided to decorate it separately and not put it on. We decorated the house with the help of our friend Diana and set it out for people to see and to eat. And we figured out why people usually make houses in a smaller size rather than bigger.
Sunday, December 28, 2014
Sports in Ecuador (Kent)
As in many countries around the world, soccer (fútbol) is the number one sport in Ecuador. The second most popular sport is probably basketball, and both males and females play. The third most popular sport would probably be volleyball, although it is mostly played by men in a 3 on 3 games with a soccer ball instead of a volleyball. All towns have their own soccer field/stadium, basketball courts/gymnasium, and a volleyball court. Although our town is only about 5,000 people, it has a large soccer stadium, a large gymnasium, and various parks with volleyball courts and basketball/soccer combination courts. Other recreational activities that are popular with locals on our island are skateboarding, surfing, body boarding, snorkeling, aerobics, running/jogging, and walking.
As far as popularity, however, soccer is much, much, much, much more popular than anything else. Males and females of all ages wear soccer jerseys, although many more men and boys play soccer than girls. Organized soccer starts young for boys, and you can see them walking the streets in packs after practices/games all dressed up with matching jerseys, shorts and socks, just like the professionals.
Ecuador's professional league has 12 teams and is of a pretty high caliber. The next caliber higher would be the European leagues, which are seen as the best in the world. Similar to baseball in the United States, there are professional "minor leagues" for soccer. Besides the 12 "A" league teams, there is a "B" league and a "C" league. What's different in Ecuador, however, is that a team can get promoted or demoted from one league to another when the season is over. The two worst teams in the "A" league get demoted to the "B" league, and the two best teams in the "B" league get to move up to the "A" league. The same happens with the B and the C leagues. There is even a "South American" cup where all the professional teams from all of the South American leagues play in a tournament to see who is the best.
It is common to see flags, banners, murals and even whole buildings promoting people's favorite professional soccer teams. (see pictures) The closest and most familiar big city to the Galápagos Islands is Guayaquil, which is Ecuador's biggest city. There are also a number of people from the island who have lived or studied in Guayaquil. So, it is no surprise that the two most popular teams on the island are from Guayaquil.
These two teams are "Barcelona" and "EMELEC." I've asked people around here why there is a team named Barcelona in Ecuador, and no one is quite sure. It probably has to do with the fact that it is a very popular team in Spain. "EMELEC" is the Ecuadoran electric company and also has a professional basketball team as well. Barcelona is yellow and EMELEC is blue. They are often the two best teams in Ecuador and they are very fierce rivals. When either team is playing, nearly everyone in town has the TV on. Restaurants, bars, stores and shops all have it on, and many draw large crowds on those nights. One small shop regularly has 30-40 people bunched outside on the sidewalk and street all glued to the TV. You can tell whenever there is a goal because you can hear cheering throughout town.
EMELEC and Barcelona were in the 2 game finals this year, and they were last year as well. EMELEC won last year and as the days led up to this year's finals, more and more banners and jerseys were seen around town. On the days of the finals, lots and lots of people were sporting their team's jersey. The rivalry is so intense that during the tournament the fans from both Guayaquil teams can't even be in the stadium during the same time or else fights will break out. So, the first game of the finals was held at the Barcelona stadium, and only Barcelona fans were allowed in. The EMELEC stadium, however was also full of EMELEC fans watching the game on the big screen. The second game was at the EMELEC stadium and only EMELEC fans were allowed in, and the Barcelona fans watched on the big screen TVs in their stadium. I asked my host brother Pablo how they keep the opposing team's fans from entering the stadium. He said that to be allowed entry into the stadium, you have to be wearing that team's jersey. No fans from the other team would want to be seen in the other team's jersey.
The first game of the finals was in the Barcelona stadium, and it ended as a 1-1 tie. EMELEC actually was leading most of the game, and Barcelona scored late in the game. Because EMELEC had no fans at the game, it was actually seen as a victory to tie Barcelona on their home field and it gave them an advantage heading into the game at the EMELEC stadium. Although I didn't watch much of the other games, I didn't want to miss the final game on Sunday, December 20. I camped out with Pablo in the living room to watch the game, both clad in EMELEC blue. I decided to root for EMELEC for several very important reasons: 1) I like the color blue much more than the color yellow, and 2) I like to root for the team that has the smaller fan base.
There were two brothers in the starting line-up, one that played for EMELEC and one that played for Barcelona, and they actually had to guard each other in the game. Within the first minutes, the Barcelona brother fouled the EMELEC brother and received a yellow (warning) card. Then, still early in the first half, the Barcelona brother fouled his brother again. This time it was much harder and the EMELEC brother had to be carried off the field in a stretcher. This resulted in a red card, which meant that he was not only ejected from the game, but Barcelona had to play the rest of the game with 10 players instead of 11. The police had to surround and escort the Barcelona brother off the field so as to protect him from the EMELEC fans.
Between the home field advantage and having one more player on the field, it is not surprising that EMELEC won the game pretty soundly, 3-0. They now have the bragging rights of being the best team in the country. Although I did not go out on the town to see the celebrations, I could hear the shouting and the honking from our house. Pablo and his daughter Ashanti were jumping for joy and shouting as well when the game was done. He took various pictures of the TV screen showing the score and the celebrations and immediately posted them on Facebook for all to see EMELEC, Ecuador's 2014 professional soccer champions.
As far as popularity, however, soccer is much, much, much, much more popular than anything else. Males and females of all ages wear soccer jerseys, although many more men and boys play soccer than girls. Organized soccer starts young for boys, and you can see them walking the streets in packs after practices/games all dressed up with matching jerseys, shorts and socks, just like the professionals.
Ecuador's professional league has 12 teams and is of a pretty high caliber. The next caliber higher would be the European leagues, which are seen as the best in the world. Similar to baseball in the United States, there are professional "minor leagues" for soccer. Besides the 12 "A" league teams, there is a "B" league and a "C" league. What's different in Ecuador, however, is that a team can get promoted or demoted from one league to another when the season is over. The two worst teams in the "A" league get demoted to the "B" league, and the two best teams in the "B" league get to move up to the "A" league. The same happens with the B and the C leagues. There is even a "South American" cup where all the professional teams from all of the South American leagues play in a tournament to see who is the best.
It is common to see flags, banners, murals and even whole buildings promoting people's favorite professional soccer teams. (see pictures) The closest and most familiar big city to the Galápagos Islands is Guayaquil, which is Ecuador's biggest city. There are also a number of people from the island who have lived or studied in Guayaquil. So, it is no surprise that the two most popular teams on the island are from Guayaquil.
These two teams are "Barcelona" and "EMELEC." I've asked people around here why there is a team named Barcelona in Ecuador, and no one is quite sure. It probably has to do with the fact that it is a very popular team in Spain. "EMELEC" is the Ecuadoran electric company and also has a professional basketball team as well. Barcelona is yellow and EMELEC is blue. They are often the two best teams in Ecuador and they are very fierce rivals. When either team is playing, nearly everyone in town has the TV on. Restaurants, bars, stores and shops all have it on, and many draw large crowds on those nights. One small shop regularly has 30-40 people bunched outside on the sidewalk and street all glued to the TV. You can tell whenever there is a goal because you can hear cheering throughout town.
EMELEC and Barcelona were in the 2 game finals this year, and they were last year as well. EMELEC won last year and as the days led up to this year's finals, more and more banners and jerseys were seen around town. On the days of the finals, lots and lots of people were sporting their team's jersey. The rivalry is so intense that during the tournament the fans from both Guayaquil teams can't even be in the stadium during the same time or else fights will break out. So, the first game of the finals was held at the Barcelona stadium, and only Barcelona fans were allowed in. The EMELEC stadium, however was also full of EMELEC fans watching the game on the big screen. The second game was at the EMELEC stadium and only EMELEC fans were allowed in, and the Barcelona fans watched on the big screen TVs in their stadium. I asked my host brother Pablo how they keep the opposing team's fans from entering the stadium. He said that to be allowed entry into the stadium, you have to be wearing that team's jersey. No fans from the other team would want to be seen in the other team's jersey.
The first game of the finals was in the Barcelona stadium, and it ended as a 1-1 tie. EMELEC actually was leading most of the game, and Barcelona scored late in the game. Because EMELEC had no fans at the game, it was actually seen as a victory to tie Barcelona on their home field and it gave them an advantage heading into the game at the EMELEC stadium. Although I didn't watch much of the other games, I didn't want to miss the final game on Sunday, December 20. I camped out with Pablo in the living room to watch the game, both clad in EMELEC blue. I decided to root for EMELEC for several very important reasons: 1) I like the color blue much more than the color yellow, and 2) I like to root for the team that has the smaller fan base.
There were two brothers in the starting line-up, one that played for EMELEC and one that played for Barcelona, and they actually had to guard each other in the game. Within the first minutes, the Barcelona brother fouled the EMELEC brother and received a yellow (warning) card. Then, still early in the first half, the Barcelona brother fouled his brother again. This time it was much harder and the EMELEC brother had to be carried off the field in a stretcher. This resulted in a red card, which meant that he was not only ejected from the game, but Barcelona had to play the rest of the game with 10 players instead of 11. The police had to surround and escort the Barcelona brother off the field so as to protect him from the EMELEC fans.
Between the home field advantage and having one more player on the field, it is not surprising that EMELEC won the game pretty soundly, 3-0. They now have the bragging rights of being the best team in the country. Although I did not go out on the town to see the celebrations, I could hear the shouting and the honking from our house. Pablo and his daughter Ashanti were jumping for joy and shouting as well when the game was done. He took various pictures of the TV screen showing the score and the celebrations and immediately posted them on Facebook for all to see EMELEC, Ecuador's 2014 professional soccer champions.
Saturday, December 27, 2014
Mennonites have more fun! And other comparisons... (Teresa)
Recently, as we left church after our third mass of the week, Magdalena said "I don't get Catholics; at least Mennonites have fun at church!" After some laughter, I had to delve more into that comment. Magdalena explained further, "we have social time, there are ways for others to be involved in the worship service, we don't listen to one man talk the whole time, we have good singing, and we have things for children to do like children's time and Sunday school." It has been a challenge for Magdalena, and all of us, for this Catholic parish to be our primary worshipping community during these 3 1/2 months. But I'm glad for her to experience a different way of doing church. It's also helpful for all of us to realize what we appreciate about Faith Mennonite our home church!
Comparisons of here and home have been a big part of our experience away, thus far. We aim to be open to new ways and ideas, but we can't help but compare and contrast the cultures and the differences between our "sabbatical life" and our "normal life." The good thing is, we are finding plenty that we really enjoy here, and at the same time plenty that we miss from home. For instance, we certainly love spending lots of time outdoors and in nature, always planning the next warm weather adventure, like kayaking, snorkeling, or bicycling. But, Magdalena has also been talking quite a bit about snow to us and to local folks. She might be romanticizing it a bit, but she really has missed Indiana fall and now winter. Recently the girls and I realized that we were all feeling as if we are waiting for fall to come, then we realize it's not coming, and we missed it! The four seasons seem to be in our bones.
It has been very special to get to know this very small island and population. No matter what event we go to, we are recognized and we have people to talk with, often children or teachers from the preschool. Last weekend went to a party (the "Wild Baptism Party"!) in an area of town that we hadn't been to before. I was nervous, assuming that Kent would be playing in the band, and the girls and I would stand around not knowing what to do. It was a delight when we stepped out of the taxi and immediately saw a few children playing on the street that we know from the preschool and who were excited to greet us. Later a mom was excited to meet the "musician family" who had taught her son so many fun songs that he now sings at home. Her son (a five year old) immediately began singing one of our songs, Diez Deditos (Ten Little Fingers), and she joined right in singing with him!
It's also been lots of fun to share more of daily life with our daughters. At our best, we can really bring out good things in each other! (And when we're not at our best, there are learnings to be embraced, right?!) Recently, when we did our bike ride together, Luisa was passing me on a long, steep incline, leaving me at the back of our group. As she slowly passed, she spurred me on, "it's not such a bad hill, you got it girl!!" That gave me a laugh and an extra boost of energy. Similarly, Magdalena kept me going when she and I needed to paddle hard in our kayak last Saturday. At one point, I was groaning with the sense that we weren't making any headway against the current. She responded with a hearty, "calm down, Mom, and keep paddling!" We soon found ourselves moving ahead and into to calmer waters. Great lessons from my daughters on keeping on with the hard task at hand!!
Obviously, when I compare "normal life" to "sabbatical life" there's really no comparison; it's like comparing apples to papayas! But I have to say that I absolutely love having fewer responsibilities: not having to answer any telephones; doing an embarrassingly small amount of housework; no committee meetings to attend; and generally having a very small circle of involvements. And it's delightful having plenty of time and space to do as I please: sit and watch the sunset; take a walk as the sun sets; take frequent naps; read novels; write; walk slowly (I think I've slowed my general pace since we've been here); waste time without feeling (too) guilty; drink coffee slowly; study Spanish grammar; watch people and other animals; or go on another adventure with my family!
And, as we compare, we think ahead to the next phase of our year away. There are a number of reasons we are glad to have had our Galapagos time as the first part of our year. It's been fairly structured since we are working through a volunteer organization, and are living with a host family. This structure has helped all of us in the process of learning and adapting to the culture and language. This was a good place for our girls to take Spanish lessons, especially for Luisa to jump start her learning. This will be the most expensive part of our trip because of the extra costs of island life; when most everything must be imported, food and supplies are generally twice the cost on the mainland. We are definitely looking forward to lower costs in Peru and the Ecuadoran mainland. Also, now that we are preparing to go to Lima, we realize what a shock it will be to go from the tranquil island life to the big city! (Two weeks there will likely be enough before heading to smaller cities.) It has been wonderful for our girls to have so much freedom here, and for all of us to easily walk from place to place.
Comparisons. Apples to papayas, cross-country skiing to snorkeling, small city of Goshen to small island town San Cristobal, Goshen Mennonites to Ecuadoran Catholics. Can't really compare! But....we do....and discover lovely experiences all around.
Comparisons of here and home have been a big part of our experience away, thus far. We aim to be open to new ways and ideas, but we can't help but compare and contrast the cultures and the differences between our "sabbatical life" and our "normal life." The good thing is, we are finding plenty that we really enjoy here, and at the same time plenty that we miss from home. For instance, we certainly love spending lots of time outdoors and in nature, always planning the next warm weather adventure, like kayaking, snorkeling, or bicycling. But, Magdalena has also been talking quite a bit about snow to us and to local folks. She might be romanticizing it a bit, but she really has missed Indiana fall and now winter. Recently the girls and I realized that we were all feeling as if we are waiting for fall to come, then we realize it's not coming, and we missed it! The four seasons seem to be in our bones.
It has been very special to get to know this very small island and population. No matter what event we go to, we are recognized and we have people to talk with, often children or teachers from the preschool. Last weekend went to a party (the "Wild Baptism Party"!) in an area of town that we hadn't been to before. I was nervous, assuming that Kent would be playing in the band, and the girls and I would stand around not knowing what to do. It was a delight when we stepped out of the taxi and immediately saw a few children playing on the street that we know from the preschool and who were excited to greet us. Later a mom was excited to meet the "musician family" who had taught her son so many fun songs that he now sings at home. Her son (a five year old) immediately began singing one of our songs, Diez Deditos (Ten Little Fingers), and she joined right in singing with him!
It's also been lots of fun to share more of daily life with our daughters. At our best, we can really bring out good things in each other! (And when we're not at our best, there are learnings to be embraced, right?!) Recently, when we did our bike ride together, Luisa was passing me on a long, steep incline, leaving me at the back of our group. As she slowly passed, she spurred me on, "it's not such a bad hill, you got it girl!!" That gave me a laugh and an extra boost of energy. Similarly, Magdalena kept me going when she and I needed to paddle hard in our kayak last Saturday. At one point, I was groaning with the sense that we weren't making any headway against the current. She responded with a hearty, "calm down, Mom, and keep paddling!" We soon found ourselves moving ahead and into to calmer waters. Great lessons from my daughters on keeping on with the hard task at hand!!
Obviously, when I compare "normal life" to "sabbatical life" there's really no comparison; it's like comparing apples to papayas! But I have to say that I absolutely love having fewer responsibilities: not having to answer any telephones; doing an embarrassingly small amount of housework; no committee meetings to attend; and generally having a very small circle of involvements. And it's delightful having plenty of time and space to do as I please: sit and watch the sunset; take a walk as the sun sets; take frequent naps; read novels; write; walk slowly (I think I've slowed my general pace since we've been here); waste time without feeling (too) guilty; drink coffee slowly; study Spanish grammar; watch people and other animals; or go on another adventure with my family!
And, as we compare, we think ahead to the next phase of our year away. There are a number of reasons we are glad to have had our Galapagos time as the first part of our year. It's been fairly structured since we are working through a volunteer organization, and are living with a host family. This structure has helped all of us in the process of learning and adapting to the culture and language. This was a good place for our girls to take Spanish lessons, especially for Luisa to jump start her learning. This will be the most expensive part of our trip because of the extra costs of island life; when most everything must be imported, food and supplies are generally twice the cost on the mainland. We are definitely looking forward to lower costs in Peru and the Ecuadoran mainland. Also, now that we are preparing to go to Lima, we realize what a shock it will be to go from the tranquil island life to the big city! (Two weeks there will likely be enough before heading to smaller cities.) It has been wonderful for our girls to have so much freedom here, and for all of us to easily walk from place to place.
Comparisons. Apples to papayas, cross-country skiing to snorkeling, small city of Goshen to small island town San Cristobal, Goshen Mennonites to Ecuadoran Catholics. Can't really compare! But....we do....and discover lovely experiences all around.
Christmas party at school (Magdalena)
On the Tuesday before Christmas we had our Christmas program that we had been preparing for with the kids for weeks. Each class had their own song (from somewhere around the world) and the whole school sang Feliz Navidad and Navidad (Jingle Bells tune) together. The day before we were supposed to have a big dress rehearsal with costumes, but since the stage didn't arrive until 10 and it didn't get finished until 11 we didn't have much time left so they didn't use their full costumes.
We arrived at the school after 8 on the big day because the program was supposed to start 9. The whole performance area was very decorated and each classroom had lots of decorations of their own. The head teacher told us that she, her husband, another teacher and her husband had all stayed there until 2 o'clock in the morning decorating. But it looked great! Kent and Luisa went around giving out the gifts that we had made for the teachers (a CD with all the songs we had sung with them and a book with the lyrics). And the 4-year-old teachers (no, the teachers weren't 4) gave us a present. Then we waited around for the program to start.
The program started long after 9, probably 9:30 and it started with one of the teachers singing a Christmas song karaoke style, which is how they like to sing. Then the kids did their songs. We started off with "Ho Ho Ho," a song from the US that has a simple circle dance that one of the kindergarten classes did. After that was "Campana Sobre Campana," a Latin American Christmas Carol that one of the 3-year-old classes did with motions. Next was a simple African song, "Sing Noel," that a 3-year-old class did with a simple little dance. Then "Zumba Zumba," a song from Spain that my dad normally does in the US in English; a kindergarten class did this song with a simple circle dance. Next was "Mi Burrito Sabanero," a Latin American Christmas Carol that a 3-year-old class did with motions. Then was "Noche De Paz" (Silent Night), which a 4-year-old class did with motions. After that was "La Piñata," a Mexican song that one of the kindergarten classes did a circle dance with. Then the last class did "Paz Y Libertad" which isn't a Christmas song but it was nice anyway; a 4-year-old class did this with scarves. Then our family sang "Joy To the World" a Capella and we finished with "Navidad" and "Feliz Navidad."
After the program all the kids headed to their classrooms along with their parents. We were invited by one of the teachers to go to her classroom but the head teacher also told us that each teacher was expecting us. So we went to the first room and ate some fish balls and chicken balls with sauce and she gave us a present from all the kindergarten teachers. Then we went to the next room where they were having a whole meal with big pieces of meat and lots of rice and the teacher wanted to give us all a meal but we insisted on only taking two meals. Then we went to the next classroom where they were having a birthday party along with a Christmas party and they gave us pop and candy. Then, in the next room, we had pop and we were given a basket of candy. And the next room was also having a full meal so we got two more meals and another basket of candy with balloons. And the next classroom we got cake and jell-o and pop. And the next room we got more cake and more pop. And by the time we got to the last room, their party was done and all the kids and all the parents had already left but he teacher had saved us some cake and had a present for us. We talked with her for a little bit and then we went back to the performance area and helped to clean up.
I got a cardboard box and started picking up all the trash. Some people we taking the covers off the chairs and stacking them. Others were taking down the tents that had saved us when it rained. And others were taking apart the stage and the decorations. With the help from the volunteers and teachers we finished around 1. Then we went to the school office and wondered if we would have to take a taxi home because of all the presents and food we had been given but we managed to carry it all. And when we got home we showed our host family what we had been given and they were very impressed.
We arrived at the school after 8 on the big day because the program was supposed to start 9. The whole performance area was very decorated and each classroom had lots of decorations of their own. The head teacher told us that she, her husband, another teacher and her husband had all stayed there until 2 o'clock in the morning decorating. But it looked great! Kent and Luisa went around giving out the gifts that we had made for the teachers (a CD with all the songs we had sung with them and a book with the lyrics). And the 4-year-old teachers (no, the teachers weren't 4) gave us a present. Then we waited around for the program to start.
The program started long after 9, probably 9:30 and it started with one of the teachers singing a Christmas song karaoke style, which is how they like to sing. Then the kids did their songs. We started off with "Ho Ho Ho," a song from the US that has a simple circle dance that one of the kindergarten classes did. After that was "Campana Sobre Campana," a Latin American Christmas Carol that one of the 3-year-old classes did with motions. Next was a simple African song, "Sing Noel," that a 3-year-old class did with a simple little dance. Then "Zumba Zumba," a song from Spain that my dad normally does in the US in English; a kindergarten class did this song with a simple circle dance. Next was "Mi Burrito Sabanero," a Latin American Christmas Carol that a 3-year-old class did with motions. Then was "Noche De Paz" (Silent Night), which a 4-year-old class did with motions. After that was "La Piñata," a Mexican song that one of the kindergarten classes did a circle dance with. Then the last class did "Paz Y Libertad" which isn't a Christmas song but it was nice anyway; a 4-year-old class did this with scarves. Then our family sang "Joy To the World" a Capella and we finished with "Navidad" and "Feliz Navidad."
After the program all the kids headed to their classrooms along with their parents. We were invited by one of the teachers to go to her classroom but the head teacher also told us that each teacher was expecting us. So we went to the first room and ate some fish balls and chicken balls with sauce and she gave us a present from all the kindergarten teachers. Then we went to the next room where they were having a whole meal with big pieces of meat and lots of rice and the teacher wanted to give us all a meal but we insisted on only taking two meals. Then we went to the next classroom where they were having a birthday party along with a Christmas party and they gave us pop and candy. Then, in the next room, we had pop and we were given a basket of candy. And the next room was also having a full meal so we got two more meals and another basket of candy with balloons. And the next classroom we got cake and jell-o and pop. And the next room we got more cake and more pop. And by the time we got to the last room, their party was done and all the kids and all the parents had already left but he teacher had saved us some cake and had a present for us. We talked with her for a little bit and then we went back to the performance area and helped to clean up.
I got a cardboard box and started picking up all the trash. Some people we taking the covers off the chairs and stacking them. Others were taking down the tents that had saved us when it rained. And others were taking apart the stage and the decorations. With the help from the volunteers and teachers we finished around 1. Then we went to the school office and wondered if we would have to take a taxi home because of all the presents and food we had been given but we managed to carry it all. And when we got home we showed our host family what we had been given and they were very impressed.
Wednesday, December 24, 2014
Merry Christmas Eve (Teresa)
"The Christmas story is not about how blessed it is to be givers but about how essential it is to see ourselves as receivers. We prefer to think of ourselves as givers—powerful, competent, self-sufficient, capable people whose goodness motivates us to employ some of our power, competence and gifts to benefit the less fortunate. Which is a direct contradiction of the biblical account of the first Christmas. There we are portrayed not as the givers we wish we were but as the receivers we are."
(From: William Willimon in The Christian Century)
Dear friends and family who continue to follow our sabbatical adventures,
I share this quote with you because it is especially meaningful to me during this year of receiving SO MUCH! We are learning to more truly be "the receivers we are." May we all be open and delighted to receive the Peace of Christ today and every day.
Merry Christmas Eve, and abrazos fuertes (big hugs) from our family to yours!
(From: William Willimon in The Christian Century)
Dear friends and family who continue to follow our sabbatical adventures,
I share this quote with you because it is especially meaningful to me during this year of receiving SO MUCH! We are learning to more truly be "the receivers we are." May we all be open and delighted to receive the Peace of Christ today and every day.
Merry Christmas Eve, and abrazos fuertes (big hugs) from our family to yours!
Monday, December 22, 2014
The Wild Baptism Party (Kent)
December 20 was a day I was looking forward to for several weeks. "Grupo Kjuyay," the indigenous band I've been playing with, had a "post-baptism party gig," and they invited me to play with them! I felt very honored to be included, even though they wanted me to play the electronic drum set. Getting ready for this gig meant we practiced 3-4 times a week the last couple of weeks. The majority of men in the group hail from the indigenous mountain community of Salasaca, which has a very tight knit community on our island. One of the band members, Manuel, was to be the godfather of this baby.
Practices are usually at 7:00 p.m. (which means starting sometime before 8:00 p.m.) and are held at the Salasaca community center, not too far from our house. It took me several weeks of hearing a kena (Andean flute) in the distance before I got the courage to interrupt their practice and introduce myself. I'm sure I was the first gringo to ever approach them during a practice and I know that I was a curious and odd sight. Out of nowhere comes this tall (by indigenous standards I am tall) white guy with a backpack that has a ukelele (which hadn't seen before), a recorder, 2 kenas and a charango (small Andean string instrument). . . and of course a nose flute. They got a kick out of the things I kept pulling out of my backpack. I asked if anyone gave churango or kena lessons. They invited me to their practices, but also wanted someone to teach them how to play bass. I've probably played with them at least 10-12 times in the past 2 months. I've played a combination of charango, electric bass, guitar and the electronic drum set. One night, when not many people showed up, they taught me how to play "The Sound of Silence" on the kena.
Having someone play the electronic drum set for the baptism gig was important to them because they wanted their music to be dance music. Although I play a variety of percussion instruments and have experimented a bit on the acoustic drum set, I have never considered myself a drummer. However, everything is relative, and it was apparent that my limited experience with the drums was more than anyone else had. It also helped that I've played with some pretty great drummers during the pasts 30 years, and have learned a lot from watching and playing with them. Last week they said that I was the best drummer they've ever had! I have felt very welcomed by these musicians and a sense that even though we come from very different cultures, we are all part of some sort of "world musician club." The fact that my main instrument groups are strings, simple winds (recorders, nose flute) and percussion also made me feel at home because those are exactly the same instrument groups that they play.
Most of the guys in "Grupo Kjuyay" are multi-instrumentalists as well. The group is very fluid. Although there were usually 5-6 people at practice, the pool of people in the group is more like 10. Every evening there seemed to be a different combination of guys, and what instruments each person played was based on who was present and what was needed at the time. Sometimes we practiced with a (very loud) sound system and sometimes we had an acoustic set-up. If there was a sound system, I would play either drum set or electric bass. If we had the acoustic set-up, I would play the guitar or the charango. All the guys floated from one instrument to another depending on our set-up and personnel. Twice the police came to tell the band to turn down the volume (practices are always held outside).
The guys in the band told me that the gig would start around 9:00 p.m. and that there would lots of food, dancing and drinking. The idea was that we would play until 2:00 a.m. or until people were too drunk to do anything, which I thought was an exaggeration. Our whole family was invited and we were told to come hungry. Our host family also told us some things about the Salasaca parties as well. They said that they are very generous with their food and can be pushy with offering beer.
On the night of the party our family was picked up at 9:15 p.m. by one of the band members who's also a taxi driver. We arrived at the party, which was held at the baby's family's house, which actually included two buildings, neither of which was finished. There was a larger house and a smaller building, both of which were pretty simple cinder block buildings without the final smooth cement coating and paint job. We were welcomed by Manuel, the band member/god father, who invited Luisa and me to sit with him, the other godfather and about 10 others in the small building. Magdalena and Teresa sat in the small dirt courtyard, along with others. Folks visited with each other in their native language, Quechua, but were also happy to visit with us in Spanish. Manuel and his wife were wearing traditional indigenous clothing, as were some others. For men this means a special white pants and shirt set with a black poncho on top. For women, it's a traditional white blouse, black wrap-around skirt, colorful belt, and special jewelry.
First course was a large bowl of delicious chicken soup, including a large piece of chicken. Second course was a large plate of rice, potato salad (potatoes, apples, carrots and peas), and an even larger piece of chicken. I watched to see if others were finishing their chicken plate because it was way more than I could eat. I was relieved to see that people were being handed "take home bags." (The leftover chicken would be enough to feed our household the next day for supper.) Small shots of wine were served with the meal, but the cold beer didn't appear until towards the end of the meal. I have never been a beer drinker. Actually, I have never been a drinker. As a late teen/young adult it was for moral reasons, but as I got older, I realized that I didn't like the taste and I didn't have a need to drink, even though I was not morally opposed to it. I don't normally have a problem being with other drinkers as long as they are not pushy with their alcohol. I was offered a bottle of Pilsener beer (the primary beer in Ecuador) at supper and I declined, even though it offended the server. I did have a little shot of wine, though.
Around 10:00 p.m. we started playing music. An older guy invited Teresa to the dirt dance floor, and soon a few others joined. Full crates of beer bottles emerged. People were pouring beer into small cups and were offering it all around. Manuel's role as godfather trumped his playing in the band. One of his responsibilities was to make sure everyone was drinking, especially the people in the band. There were no breaks in our set list because the rhythm keeps going in between songs. So, Manuel would come along with a beer bottle and a cup and make each of us drink a whole cup full, even if that meant pouring beer into our mouths while we played. I refused as many times as I could. Once I told him to put the cup onto the floor for me, where I knew it would get knocked over. The more people drank, the more dancing there was and the more animated it got.
Teresa and the girls headed home around 11:00. The band played until around 11:15-11:30. We stopped and started putting instruments into our cases. The next thing on the agenda was more drinking and more dancing--this time with a DJ and recorded music. I tried to be a wall flower, but soon I was pushed onto the dance floor and one of the band members made me dance with his wife. "It's our custom!" he said. People came up to my dance partner and made her drink, even though she tried to refuse. She didn't look very happy; I'm not sure if because she had to dance with this tall white stranger or if she didn't want to drink. I was forced to take a cup, and when they weren't looking, I dumped it on the ground. But that didn't always work, especially with Manuel. "Come on! Just a little drink! It's our custom!"
The pushiness with the beer was making me rather uneasy. It seemed like the goal of this party was to make everyone drunk. Even so, I miraculously escaped only consuming a total of two small plastic cups of beer the whole evening. I thought it was a good time to leave, so I started saying good bye to the band guys. Manuel said that I couldn't go yet because we still had more playing to do. So, I went out to the street away from the dance floor, which had 20-30 people. The street was lined with 30-50 spectators and/or party goers. Sometime after midnight, they cut the huge cake and offered it to everyone in the vicinity. As long as I was in the street and out of the "dance/party zone," I seemed to be safe from beer pushers. Then the most drunk guy of the party came up to me and motioned me to drink. I wasn't sure if he was deaf or was just so drunk that he couldn't speak. He just made lots of motions and acted very disapprovingly when I turned down his drink offer. He then attempted to pour my cup of beer back into his bottle, spilling most of it onto himself.
After I ate my cake, two guys who were sitting in chairs not too far from the dance floor gestured for me to sit with them. They offered me some beer, but were not pushy. They seemed more interested in conversation, which I welcomed. These guys were brothers who were neighbors of the "party house," but were not part of the Salasaca community. One of them said that he was the president of the neighborhood association. At least that's what I thought he said. It was very hard to hear and to talk with the extremely loud dance music. By the end of the evening I had unknowingly yelled myself hoarse. The brothers said that the party would probably go until 6:00 a.m., but that many people would continue to drink throughout the day.
At about 12:45 a.m. it was time to play music again. Things were not as organized as before. The singing was really off pitch and I had to work hard at keeping everyone together tempo-wise. There were 3 drunk spectators standing directly in front of me. They were either cheering me on or simply staring at me. The bathroom was right next to us, and there was a very steady stream (no pun intended) of people going in and out of the bathroom. The men usually did not close the door. One man was taking too long, so another man walked in and peed in the tub. One man couldn't even wait to go into the bathroom so he peed on the wall. By the way it smelled around there, I don't think he was the first.
The more drunk people got, the more uncomfortable I became. When our set was done around 1:15, I was ready to leave. Luckily, when I told Manuel I was leaving, he seemed to understand. He said some very kind things to me like how happy he was that I was there and had played with the band. He also realized that he was too drunk to drive me home. I was more than happy to walk home. No one was fit to drive and the party was going as strong as ever.
In reflecting on this experience with other locals, it was clear that this kind of party is the norm in the Salasaca community. Although their "party culture" is one thing that I don't understand and was very uncomfortable for me, I have really enjoyed playing music with these guys. They have been very welcoming to me and eager to exchange musical knowledge. They are very talented musicians who take their music seriously and are passionate about keeping their music alive.
Practices are usually at 7:00 p.m. (which means starting sometime before 8:00 p.m.) and are held at the Salasaca community center, not too far from our house. It took me several weeks of hearing a kena (Andean flute) in the distance before I got the courage to interrupt their practice and introduce myself. I'm sure I was the first gringo to ever approach them during a practice and I know that I was a curious and odd sight. Out of nowhere comes this tall (by indigenous standards I am tall) white guy with a backpack that has a ukelele (which hadn't seen before), a recorder, 2 kenas and a charango (small Andean string instrument). . . and of course a nose flute. They got a kick out of the things I kept pulling out of my backpack. I asked if anyone gave churango or kena lessons. They invited me to their practices, but also wanted someone to teach them how to play bass. I've probably played with them at least 10-12 times in the past 2 months. I've played a combination of charango, electric bass, guitar and the electronic drum set. One night, when not many people showed up, they taught me how to play "The Sound of Silence" on the kena.
Having someone play the electronic drum set for the baptism gig was important to them because they wanted their music to be dance music. Although I play a variety of percussion instruments and have experimented a bit on the acoustic drum set, I have never considered myself a drummer. However, everything is relative, and it was apparent that my limited experience with the drums was more than anyone else had. It also helped that I've played with some pretty great drummers during the pasts 30 years, and have learned a lot from watching and playing with them. Last week they said that I was the best drummer they've ever had! I have felt very welcomed by these musicians and a sense that even though we come from very different cultures, we are all part of some sort of "world musician club." The fact that my main instrument groups are strings, simple winds (recorders, nose flute) and percussion also made me feel at home because those are exactly the same instrument groups that they play.
Most of the guys in "Grupo Kjuyay" are multi-instrumentalists as well. The group is very fluid. Although there were usually 5-6 people at practice, the pool of people in the group is more like 10. Every evening there seemed to be a different combination of guys, and what instruments each person played was based on who was present and what was needed at the time. Sometimes we practiced with a (very loud) sound system and sometimes we had an acoustic set-up. If there was a sound system, I would play either drum set or electric bass. If we had the acoustic set-up, I would play the guitar or the charango. All the guys floated from one instrument to another depending on our set-up and personnel. Twice the police came to tell the band to turn down the volume (practices are always held outside).
The guys in the band told me that the gig would start around 9:00 p.m. and that there would lots of food, dancing and drinking. The idea was that we would play until 2:00 a.m. or until people were too drunk to do anything, which I thought was an exaggeration. Our whole family was invited and we were told to come hungry. Our host family also told us some things about the Salasaca parties as well. They said that they are very generous with their food and can be pushy with offering beer.
On the night of the party our family was picked up at 9:15 p.m. by one of the band members who's also a taxi driver. We arrived at the party, which was held at the baby's family's house, which actually included two buildings, neither of which was finished. There was a larger house and a smaller building, both of which were pretty simple cinder block buildings without the final smooth cement coating and paint job. We were welcomed by Manuel, the band member/god father, who invited Luisa and me to sit with him, the other godfather and about 10 others in the small building. Magdalena and Teresa sat in the small dirt courtyard, along with others. Folks visited with each other in their native language, Quechua, but were also happy to visit with us in Spanish. Manuel and his wife were wearing traditional indigenous clothing, as were some others. For men this means a special white pants and shirt set with a black poncho on top. For women, it's a traditional white blouse, black wrap-around skirt, colorful belt, and special jewelry.
First course was a large bowl of delicious chicken soup, including a large piece of chicken. Second course was a large plate of rice, potato salad (potatoes, apples, carrots and peas), and an even larger piece of chicken. I watched to see if others were finishing their chicken plate because it was way more than I could eat. I was relieved to see that people were being handed "take home bags." (The leftover chicken would be enough to feed our household the next day for supper.) Small shots of wine were served with the meal, but the cold beer didn't appear until towards the end of the meal. I have never been a beer drinker. Actually, I have never been a drinker. As a late teen/young adult it was for moral reasons, but as I got older, I realized that I didn't like the taste and I didn't have a need to drink, even though I was not morally opposed to it. I don't normally have a problem being with other drinkers as long as they are not pushy with their alcohol. I was offered a bottle of Pilsener beer (the primary beer in Ecuador) at supper and I declined, even though it offended the server. I did have a little shot of wine, though.
Around 10:00 p.m. we started playing music. An older guy invited Teresa to the dirt dance floor, and soon a few others joined. Full crates of beer bottles emerged. People were pouring beer into small cups and were offering it all around. Manuel's role as godfather trumped his playing in the band. One of his responsibilities was to make sure everyone was drinking, especially the people in the band. There were no breaks in our set list because the rhythm keeps going in between songs. So, Manuel would come along with a beer bottle and a cup and make each of us drink a whole cup full, even if that meant pouring beer into our mouths while we played. I refused as many times as I could. Once I told him to put the cup onto the floor for me, where I knew it would get knocked over. The more people drank, the more dancing there was and the more animated it got.
Teresa and the girls headed home around 11:00. The band played until around 11:15-11:30. We stopped and started putting instruments into our cases. The next thing on the agenda was more drinking and more dancing--this time with a DJ and recorded music. I tried to be a wall flower, but soon I was pushed onto the dance floor and one of the band members made me dance with his wife. "It's our custom!" he said. People came up to my dance partner and made her drink, even though she tried to refuse. She didn't look very happy; I'm not sure if because she had to dance with this tall white stranger or if she didn't want to drink. I was forced to take a cup, and when they weren't looking, I dumped it on the ground. But that didn't always work, especially with Manuel. "Come on! Just a little drink! It's our custom!"
The pushiness with the beer was making me rather uneasy. It seemed like the goal of this party was to make everyone drunk. Even so, I miraculously escaped only consuming a total of two small plastic cups of beer the whole evening. I thought it was a good time to leave, so I started saying good bye to the band guys. Manuel said that I couldn't go yet because we still had more playing to do. So, I went out to the street away from the dance floor, which had 20-30 people. The street was lined with 30-50 spectators and/or party goers. Sometime after midnight, they cut the huge cake and offered it to everyone in the vicinity. As long as I was in the street and out of the "dance/party zone," I seemed to be safe from beer pushers. Then the most drunk guy of the party came up to me and motioned me to drink. I wasn't sure if he was deaf or was just so drunk that he couldn't speak. He just made lots of motions and acted very disapprovingly when I turned down his drink offer. He then attempted to pour my cup of beer back into his bottle, spilling most of it onto himself.
After I ate my cake, two guys who were sitting in chairs not too far from the dance floor gestured for me to sit with them. They offered me some beer, but were not pushy. They seemed more interested in conversation, which I welcomed. These guys were brothers who were neighbors of the "party house," but were not part of the Salasaca community. One of them said that he was the president of the neighborhood association. At least that's what I thought he said. It was very hard to hear and to talk with the extremely loud dance music. By the end of the evening I had unknowingly yelled myself hoarse. The brothers said that the party would probably go until 6:00 a.m., but that many people would continue to drink throughout the day.
At about 12:45 a.m. it was time to play music again. Things were not as organized as before. The singing was really off pitch and I had to work hard at keeping everyone together tempo-wise. There were 3 drunk spectators standing directly in front of me. They were either cheering me on or simply staring at me. The bathroom was right next to us, and there was a very steady stream (no pun intended) of people going in and out of the bathroom. The men usually did not close the door. One man was taking too long, so another man walked in and peed in the tub. One man couldn't even wait to go into the bathroom so he peed on the wall. By the way it smelled around there, I don't think he was the first.
The more drunk people got, the more uncomfortable I became. When our set was done around 1:15, I was ready to leave. Luckily, when I told Manuel I was leaving, he seemed to understand. He said some very kind things to me like how happy he was that I was there and had played with the band. He also realized that he was too drunk to drive me home. I was more than happy to walk home. No one was fit to drive and the party was going as strong as ever.
In reflecting on this experience with other locals, it was clear that this kind of party is the norm in the Salasaca community. Although their "party culture" is one thing that I don't understand and was very uncomfortable for me, I have really enjoyed playing music with these guys. They have been very welcoming to me and eager to exchange musical knowledge. They are very talented musicians who take their music seriously and are passionate about keeping their music alive.
Sunday, December 21, 2014
Kayaking (Magdalena)
On Saturday morning we four went kayaking. We got to the rental place after 9 and we got the kayaks. The guy there told us that we only needed to pay $10 per kayak per hour instead of $15 because we have been here so long, and are volunteers. Once we were out on the water we didn't really know where to go because if you leave the bay the ocean gets rough. So we went to the one end of the bay and then came back and went to the other end. We saw probably 10 blue footed boobies near the end of the bay and then we started to get sucked out and had to work really hard to get back. Then we went to the middle of the bay again and then it had been a little over an hour and we paddled to one of the beaches and got out. When we were getting out of the kayaks the waves splashed our backs a lot. After we returned the kayaks and such, we went downtown and got popsicles.
Thursday, December 18, 2014
Tradition of Las Novenas (Teresa)
The nine evenings of "Las Novenas" are celebrated here and throughout Latin America. This tradition, with some similarities to the Las Posadas tradition in Mexico (that we experienced in south Texas), is a reenactment of the pilgrimage of Mary and Joseph in their search for lodging. Each evening a mass is held, children are chosen to portray the Christmas story characters, and then the children (dressed as Mary and Joseph, shepherds, angels, etc.) lead the procession from the church to the location of the party. As the group processes a priest leads the group in singing Christmas carols. Before the party begins, Mary and Joseph place the baby Jesus in the nativity, and then all enjoy hot chocolate, sandwiches, and bags of candies (for children).
Each evening local businesses take turns hosting the Holy Family and the party for the community. Banks, schools, stores, public services, all join in to host these festivities. This hosting is called "El Pase del Niño" (Passing of the Child) as they actually pass a baby Jesus doll from place to place each evening. The idea being that every place and every person must be prepared for the arrival of Jesus.
Our family was involved in "Las Novenas" for two evenings in a row. Ashanti was asked to be Mary, and Luisa asked to be a shepherdess for both nights; last night's party was hosted by the bank where Ashanti's aunt works, and tonight's hosted by the electric company where Pablo and Yolanda work. There is much beauty in this tradition and the sense of communal preparations for the arrival of Jesus. It's also lots of fun for the whole family, unless the fighting for candy gets out of hand! Because we're so accustomed to keeping church traditions separate from the secular realm, the idea of businesses "Passing the Child" and hosting a church party is foreign to us. But since the culture here is still predominately Catholic (though this is changing) this combination seems to work. At the same time I've heard some critics among local residents, pointing out that some folks only show up at church once a year, when their organization is hosting the party for Las Novenas. Yes, there are always complex issues to think about. And yes, we join in preparing our hearts and homes for the coming of Emmanuel, God with us, in every part of life!
Each evening local businesses take turns hosting the Holy Family and the party for the community. Banks, schools, stores, public services, all join in to host these festivities. This hosting is called "El Pase del Niño" (Passing of the Child) as they actually pass a baby Jesus doll from place to place each evening. The idea being that every place and every person must be prepared for the arrival of Jesus.
Our family was involved in "Las Novenas" for two evenings in a row. Ashanti was asked to be Mary, and Luisa asked to be a shepherdess for both nights; last night's party was hosted by the bank where Ashanti's aunt works, and tonight's hosted by the electric company where Pablo and Yolanda work. There is much beauty in this tradition and the sense of communal preparations for the arrival of Jesus. It's also lots of fun for the whole family, unless the fighting for candy gets out of hand! Because we're so accustomed to keeping church traditions separate from the secular realm, the idea of businesses "Passing the Child" and hosting a church party is foreign to us. But since the culture here is still predominately Catholic (though this is changing) this combination seems to work. At the same time I've heard some critics among local residents, pointing out that some folks only show up at church once a year, when their organization is hosting the party for Las Novenas. Yes, there are always complex issues to think about. And yes, we join in preparing our hearts and homes for the coming of Emmanuel, God with us, in every part of life!
Our Schedule For Our Last Weeks, Holiday Weeks, On The Island (Magdalena)
Monday, Dec. 15--Kent had indigenous band practice and the police came because they were too loud at 10pm.
Tuesday, Dec. 16--Kent had indigenous band practice and the police came because they were too loud at 8:45pm (which is when nobody is sleeping).
Wednesday, Dec. 17--Our family went to the Novenas (see separate description) mass at 7pm. Ashanti was Mary and Luisa was a shepardess because it was being hosted by the bank that Ashanti's aunt works for. After the mass everyone went to the bank where there was a long line of kids and teens waiting for the candy, sandwiches and hot chocolate.
Thursday, Dec. 18--Kent has indigenous band practice in the evening. The rest of us will go to the Novenas mass where Ashanti will be Mary again because it's being hosted by the electric company which her dad and grandma work for. After the mass we will all walk to the electric company for candy, sandwiches and hot chocolate.
Friday, Dec. 19--At the office there will be a class for the volunteers on how to make empanadas at 9am which Magdalena and Luisa will skip class for and Kent and Teresa will meet them after class is done. In the evening Kent will have indigenous band practice.
Saturday, Dec. 20--At 6pm the whole household will go to the mass which includes Ashanti's first communion and confirmation. Aterward Kent and the indigenous band will play at a baby's baptism party until the wee hours of the morning.
Sunday, Dec. 21--Either Saturday or Sunday morning our family will go kayaking.
Monday, Dec. 22--In the morning the entire preschool will have their dress rehearsal for their Christmas concert. At 8pm we will have a Christmas concert in front of the CD store that we recorded at. The owner insisted we perform for his 5-year-old daughter and her friends.
Tuesday, Dec. 23--In the morning the preschool will have their Christmas party that includes the concert that we've been helping them prepare for. This is the last day of school before Christmas and all the schools will have parties and performances. In the evening all of the volunteers in our program will be treated to a Christmas meal in a restaurant.
Wednesday, Dec. 24--Christmas Eve! We will have a big dinner all together at home and then probably go to a mass.
Thursday, Dec. 25--Christmas! We don't have any plans but we will probably be doing normal Christmas stuff like playing outside in the snow, having stockings hung on the fireplace and singing hymns.
Friday, Dec. 26--We will go to a workshop at the office to make paper mâché dummies that we will then burn in the downtown on New Year's Eve. (This project will continue until we've finished our "muñecos.") We will make them look like someone real and then write their will, which needs to rhyme. We've been told that people display their dummies and wills outside their houses a few days ahead to get judged. The winner gets a $500 award.
Wednesday, Dec. 31--New Year's Eve! The whole town will gather downtown to burn their dummies after giving them a beating. The meaning of the beating and burning tradition is to burn and beat everything bad that happened in the old year, and start the new year with a clean slate.
Thursday, Jan. 1--New Year's Day!
Friday, Jan. 2--We boogie on out of this joint.
Tuesday, Dec. 16--Kent had indigenous band practice and the police came because they were too loud at 8:45pm (which is when nobody is sleeping).
Wednesday, Dec. 17--Our family went to the Novenas (see separate description) mass at 7pm. Ashanti was Mary and Luisa was a shepardess because it was being hosted by the bank that Ashanti's aunt works for. After the mass everyone went to the bank where there was a long line of kids and teens waiting for the candy, sandwiches and hot chocolate.
Thursday, Dec. 18--Kent has indigenous band practice in the evening. The rest of us will go to the Novenas mass where Ashanti will be Mary again because it's being hosted by the electric company which her dad and grandma work for. After the mass we will all walk to the electric company for candy, sandwiches and hot chocolate.
Friday, Dec. 19--At the office there will be a class for the volunteers on how to make empanadas at 9am which Magdalena and Luisa will skip class for and Kent and Teresa will meet them after class is done. In the evening Kent will have indigenous band practice.
Saturday, Dec. 20--At 6pm the whole household will go to the mass which includes Ashanti's first communion and confirmation. Aterward Kent and the indigenous band will play at a baby's baptism party until the wee hours of the morning.
Sunday, Dec. 21--Either Saturday or Sunday morning our family will go kayaking.
Monday, Dec. 22--In the morning the entire preschool will have their dress rehearsal for their Christmas concert. At 8pm we will have a Christmas concert in front of the CD store that we recorded at. The owner insisted we perform for his 5-year-old daughter and her friends.
Tuesday, Dec. 23--In the morning the preschool will have their Christmas party that includes the concert that we've been helping them prepare for. This is the last day of school before Christmas and all the schools will have parties and performances. In the evening all of the volunteers in our program will be treated to a Christmas meal in a restaurant.
Wednesday, Dec. 24--Christmas Eve! We will have a big dinner all together at home and then probably go to a mass.
Thursday, Dec. 25--Christmas! We don't have any plans but we will probably be doing normal Christmas stuff like playing outside in the snow, having stockings hung on the fireplace and singing hymns.
Friday, Dec. 26--We will go to a workshop at the office to make paper mâché dummies that we will then burn in the downtown on New Year's Eve. (This project will continue until we've finished our "muñecos.") We will make them look like someone real and then write their will, which needs to rhyme. We've been told that people display their dummies and wills outside their houses a few days ahead to get judged. The winner gets a $500 award.
Wednesday, Dec. 31--New Year's Eve! The whole town will gather downtown to burn their dummies after giving them a beating. The meaning of the beating and burning tradition is to burn and beat everything bad that happened in the old year, and start the new year with a clean slate.
Thursday, Jan. 1--New Year's Day!
Friday, Jan. 2--We boogie on out of this joint.
Monday, December 15, 2014
Biking to El Junco (Luisa)
Yesterday morning we left the house at 8:30 and went to the Malecon to a bike shop to rent bikes to bike up to El Junco, the crater lake. When we got to the shop it wasn't open yet so we walked along the Malecon to see if there were any other places to rent bikes. As we were walking along we found one store that rents bikes but they only had one bike. So we decided that we would just go back to the other store and wait for it to open. On our way back we realized that we only had ten dollars and that wasn't enough so daddy went back to the house to get more money. When we got back to the store they were just starting to open up so we picked out bikes and helmets and when daddy got back with the money we paid and started up.
After about 10-15 minutes I heard "Oh shoot" from behind me and knew that mama got hurt so I turned around and went back a little ways to where she was. Sure enough her chain had fallen off and she put it back on but in the process she cut her thumb. Magdalena and daddy came back also and by then mama said she felt lightheaded. So she drank some water and rested. After about five minutes she wasn't feeling better so she told us just to continue on with out her and she would stay and rest more.
We biked for about five more minutes and then realized that mama was coming up so we stopped and waited for her. When she caught up to us we started up again all together. After a little while it started raining and I was worried that we weren't going to make it to El Junco. But when we got to the cemetery close to El Progreso it stopped raining so we took a break and had a snack. Then it was time to get back on our bikes and keep riding. Pretty soon we were in El Progreso and we stopped at a little store to get drinks because by then our water was almost gone, then back to the bikes again.
After a total of about four hours of going up we were at El Junco. When we got there we were so excited because it was extremely clear and we were able to see the wind mills, which we had seen a sign for there but had never been able to see because of fog. When we got to the top we were able to see the whole lake! So we walked down the other side to get a closer look. Unfortunately by the time we got down to the bottom a cloud had covered the lake and we could only see half of it. So we walked back up to the top again and of course then it was clear again. We walked back down to our bikes, had a snack, and got back on our bikes to go back down.
It took us about 15 minutes to get back to El Progreso and when we got there we went to a look out over the island. Since it was a clear day we were able to see all of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, 5 fingers, and Kicker Rock. Then we were back on our bikes and coasting back to town. When we got back to the bike shop it was a little after 2:00. So we walked home, ate lunch, and took showers. We were all really tired afterwards but we all thought it was worth it also.
After about 10-15 minutes I heard "Oh shoot" from behind me and knew that mama got hurt so I turned around and went back a little ways to where she was. Sure enough her chain had fallen off and she put it back on but in the process she cut her thumb. Magdalena and daddy came back also and by then mama said she felt lightheaded. So she drank some water and rested. After about five minutes she wasn't feeling better so she told us just to continue on with out her and she would stay and rest more.
We biked for about five more minutes and then realized that mama was coming up so we stopped and waited for her. When she caught up to us we started up again all together. After a little while it started raining and I was worried that we weren't going to make it to El Junco. But when we got to the cemetery close to El Progreso it stopped raining so we took a break and had a snack. Then it was time to get back on our bikes and keep riding. Pretty soon we were in El Progreso and we stopped at a little store to get drinks because by then our water was almost gone, then back to the bikes again.
After a total of about four hours of going up we were at El Junco. When we got there we were so excited because it was extremely clear and we were able to see the wind mills, which we had seen a sign for there but had never been able to see because of fog. When we got to the top we were able to see the whole lake! So we walked down the other side to get a closer look. Unfortunately by the time we got down to the bottom a cloud had covered the lake and we could only see half of it. So we walked back up to the top again and of course then it was clear again. We walked back down to our bikes, had a snack, and got back on our bikes to go back down.
It took us about 15 minutes to get back to El Progreso and when we got there we went to a look out over the island. Since it was a clear day we were able to see all of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, 5 fingers, and Kicker Rock. Then we were back on our bikes and coasting back to town. When we got back to the bike shop it was a little after 2:00. So we walked home, ate lunch, and took showers. We were all really tired afterwards but we all thought it was worth it also.
Friday, December 12, 2014
Kent's Speaking Problems (Magdalena)
A couple weeks after we had returned from our trip to Isabela, my dad was talking about all the "stupid tourists" that were there. He was talking about the French couple that had put volcanic rocks in their backpack after being told not to and about the Russian family who pushed a sea turtle while snorkeling and who also petted an iguana. We were then talking with our host family about a punishment that there should be for tourists that mess with the wildlife. My dad's idea was that the tourists should pet a really spiny sea urchin or impregnate a cactus. The word for impregnate in Spanish is embaraza and the word for hug is abraza. He meant to say they should hug the cactus. And now Ashanti won't let him forget it. :D
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
Kent's Trip to Leon Dormido/Kicker Rock
On Sunday, December 7, most of my family and some of our host family were going to the highlands to go horseback riding. I did not want to go horseback riding, so I scheduled a snorkeling trip to Kicker Rock (also known as "Leon Dormido" which in Spanish means "sleeping lion"). We had gone once with our host family in their fishing boat, but we had decided that the waters were too rough and murky to snorkel. I wanted to return there so that I could go snorkeling with sharks, which is the main attraction there. Sunday morning our family got a call from the horse farm saying that it had been raining a lot in the hills, and there was a lot of mud on the trails. So much so that they were worried that the horses might slip. The horse trip was cancelled, but the snorkeling trip was still on. I tried to convince Magdalena to go, but she wanted to stay at home.
This would be my fourth (and last) snorkeling trip where I paid money for someone to take us out to a place where we wouldn't otherwise be able to go. Most of the time I/we walk to La Loberia (Sea Lion Beach) and go snorkeling there. When the tide is low, it's pretty great snorkeling. Snorkeling is my current favorite "sport" and I have the goal of snorkeling as many times as I can during our last month here. Luisa is into it too. During the last week the two of us have walked the mile + to La Loberia just to snorkel.
On this particular trip, our snorkeling boat had just 5 passengers, the captain, the first mate, and our Galapagos National Park certified tour guide. Leon Dormido trips usually include another location as well, and ours was a beach called "Playa Manglecito" (Little Mangrove Beach). At the beach we could hike, tan, hang out, or go snorkeling. After a brief hike to explore the beach, I headed to the water with my snorkeling gear. The snorkeling was similar to La Loberia. It was shallow with lots of rocks covered with marine algae and plants, which both the fish and turtles like. What made this "snorkel" special was that I saw a beautiful hawksbill turtle. The most common sea turtle to see in the waters around San Cristobal is the green sea turtle. This was only the second time that I saw a hawksbill turtle close up. It has a orangish-brownish shell, and is smaller than the green turtles. I also saw some large, (1 1/2-2 feet long) colorful tropical fish. Some were orange and others were multi-colored with a shimmery florescent sort of sparkle. For both large fish and sea turtles, my strategy is to follow them at a safe distance until I either lose them, I see something else interesting, or I simply am ready to move onto something else.
Lunch often seems to taste better on snorkeling trips. I probably snorkeled 45 minutes or so, which takes more energy than I realize. On the boat we ate a delicious lunch of fried fish (wahoo), sweet plantain, rice and salad. After lunch we headed to Leon Dormido, which we could see already from our beach. From a distance and at the right angle, the rock does indeed look like a sleeping lion. Leon Dormido is actually small when you consider it to be an island, but is humungous when you think of it terms of a rock that is jutting out of the middle of the ocean. When the sun shines on Kicker Rock, it almost sparkles. Made of lava rock, it has many large white spots--due to the vast number of sea birds that nest there and poop on it--which is typical of all the coastal Galapagos rock formations.
Close up, Leon Dormido is quite impressive. It actually has two sections, which are separated by about 50-75 feet. It looks as if God took a steak knife and cut the rock into two sections. It was near this space that we were dropped off. Unlike my other snorkeling adventures, this one was in deep water. After jumping off the boat and into the ocean, I looked around to see nothing but water. However, after getting adjusted to my surroundings and as we approached the space between the two rocks, we started seeing good-sized fish and then Galapagos sharks! All the sharks in the Galapagos waters are said to be not dangerous to humans. The Galapagos sharks can get up to 12 feet long, but most of the ones we saw were probably no longer than 8 ft. Looking below me, I could see at least 10 sharks at once, gracefully swimming at least 6-10 feet below me. They didn't seem to be phased by our group at all. At one point, directly below us were two large eagle rays!
Besides the sharks and rays, we were also greeted by fish of all sizes, shapes and colors. Under water, the surface of Leon Dormido is teaming with life. Sea urchins in crevices, sea stars, corals, water plants, fish . . . Leon Dormido's under water surfaces are a living mural. As we swam besides the walls, the "mural" changed. It was the most diverse snorkeling I've experienced yet. At one point we hovered above a school of thousands of silver-black fish. One guy in our group was very good at diving deep. He'd dive right down through the middle of them and they would part for him. The hole would then close up, and soon after he'd pop right through the fish, who would again part for him. At another time something dove down out of nowhere. It was a diving blue-footed booby. I've often seen them flying over head and then dive straight into the water, but this was the first time I got to see what it looked like below water. The booby went down some 20-30 feet below the surface.
Towards the end of our time in the water, my hands were numb and I was getting tired. But at the same time, I didn't want to get out of the water. It's such a magical place below the water's surface and I could swim around the under water walls of Leon Dormido again and again and still see new things. Writing about it helps preserve the memory of such an incredible experience.
This would be my fourth (and last) snorkeling trip where I paid money for someone to take us out to a place where we wouldn't otherwise be able to go. Most of the time I/we walk to La Loberia (Sea Lion Beach) and go snorkeling there. When the tide is low, it's pretty great snorkeling. Snorkeling is my current favorite "sport" and I have the goal of snorkeling as many times as I can during our last month here. Luisa is into it too. During the last week the two of us have walked the mile + to La Loberia just to snorkel.
On this particular trip, our snorkeling boat had just 5 passengers, the captain, the first mate, and our Galapagos National Park certified tour guide. Leon Dormido trips usually include another location as well, and ours was a beach called "Playa Manglecito" (Little Mangrove Beach). At the beach we could hike, tan, hang out, or go snorkeling. After a brief hike to explore the beach, I headed to the water with my snorkeling gear. The snorkeling was similar to La Loberia. It was shallow with lots of rocks covered with marine algae and plants, which both the fish and turtles like. What made this "snorkel" special was that I saw a beautiful hawksbill turtle. The most common sea turtle to see in the waters around San Cristobal is the green sea turtle. This was only the second time that I saw a hawksbill turtle close up. It has a orangish-brownish shell, and is smaller than the green turtles. I also saw some large, (1 1/2-2 feet long) colorful tropical fish. Some were orange and others were multi-colored with a shimmery florescent sort of sparkle. For both large fish and sea turtles, my strategy is to follow them at a safe distance until I either lose them, I see something else interesting, or I simply am ready to move onto something else.
Lunch often seems to taste better on snorkeling trips. I probably snorkeled 45 minutes or so, which takes more energy than I realize. On the boat we ate a delicious lunch of fried fish (wahoo), sweet plantain, rice and salad. After lunch we headed to Leon Dormido, which we could see already from our beach. From a distance and at the right angle, the rock does indeed look like a sleeping lion. Leon Dormido is actually small when you consider it to be an island, but is humungous when you think of it terms of a rock that is jutting out of the middle of the ocean. When the sun shines on Kicker Rock, it almost sparkles. Made of lava rock, it has many large white spots--due to the vast number of sea birds that nest there and poop on it--which is typical of all the coastal Galapagos rock formations.
Close up, Leon Dormido is quite impressive. It actually has two sections, which are separated by about 50-75 feet. It looks as if God took a steak knife and cut the rock into two sections. It was near this space that we were dropped off. Unlike my other snorkeling adventures, this one was in deep water. After jumping off the boat and into the ocean, I looked around to see nothing but water. However, after getting adjusted to my surroundings and as we approached the space between the two rocks, we started seeing good-sized fish and then Galapagos sharks! All the sharks in the Galapagos waters are said to be not dangerous to humans. The Galapagos sharks can get up to 12 feet long, but most of the ones we saw were probably no longer than 8 ft. Looking below me, I could see at least 10 sharks at once, gracefully swimming at least 6-10 feet below me. They didn't seem to be phased by our group at all. At one point, directly below us were two large eagle rays!
Besides the sharks and rays, we were also greeted by fish of all sizes, shapes and colors. Under water, the surface of Leon Dormido is teaming with life. Sea urchins in crevices, sea stars, corals, water plants, fish . . . Leon Dormido's under water surfaces are a living mural. As we swam besides the walls, the "mural" changed. It was the most diverse snorkeling I've experienced yet. At one point we hovered above a school of thousands of silver-black fish. One guy in our group was very good at diving deep. He'd dive right down through the middle of them and they would part for him. The hole would then close up, and soon after he'd pop right through the fish, who would again part for him. At another time something dove down out of nowhere. It was a diving blue-footed booby. I've often seen them flying over head and then dive straight into the water, but this was the first time I got to see what it looked like below water. The booby went down some 20-30 feet below the surface.
Towards the end of our time in the water, my hands were numb and I was getting tired. But at the same time, I didn't want to get out of the water. It's such a magical place below the water's surface and I could swim around the under water walls of Leon Dormido again and again and still see new things. Writing about it helps preserve the memory of such an incredible experience.
What's next? (Teresa)
Some of you have asked....and the time has come to look ahead. I've thoroughly enjoyed these months on the island, living (for the most part) in the moment, and having a much simplified schedule. (The sun and surf are great, too!) These aspects are some of what I was craving for this sabbatical time. But, the time always comes when we have to do some planning for the future, and so I've been working on the details of our upcoming months in Peru (January through May).
It is hard to believe that we only have 3 1/2 weeks remaining here on San Cristobal. It's especially hard to get through my head that it is nearly time for Christmas and a new year! Without cold weather, and in a place where the temperature is increasing in this time of the year, my body and mind just aren't feeling Christmas-y. The fact that we are singing Christmas songs every day with the children helps to orient me. We four are all looking forward to experiencing Christmas and New Years traditions here.
Soon after, on January 2, it will be time to say "goodbye" to this unique place and new friends.....and we'll fly back to the Ecuador mainland, and then board a bus in Guayaquil to go all of the way to Lima, Peru, a 26 hour ride, more or less (most likely more!). The deadline we want to meet in Lima is to arrive in time for the annual South American Suzuki Festival. And because of the lovely ways that God provides for us......through the connections of church family....we will have lodging in Lima in a house owned by a Mennonite Brethren church.
The new, revised schedule for the remaining months is as follows....and as always, is subject to adjustments!
Jan 2: flight from San Cristobal to Guayaquil, spend two nights
Jan 4-5: bus from Guayaquil to Lima
Jan 6-17: Suzuki Festival and sight-seeing in Lima
Jan 18: bus to La Merced, northeast of Lima, where the mountains and rainforest meet
Jan 18-Feb 20: teaching music in a municipal summer program for children; staying with friends of friends in a one floor apartment (noon meals shared, others on our own)
Feb 21-23: travel back to Lima and then to Cusco (by plane)
Feb 23-end of May: near Cusco at La Promesa, a Mennonite school; helping with a new music program, teaching/tutoring English; Magdalena and Luisa will attend school; housing isn't confirmed yet
Late May-late June: return to Ecuador; visit the Ross Richer family in the Amazon region
Late June: return to the good ole USA
It is hard to believe that we only have 3 1/2 weeks remaining here on San Cristobal. It's especially hard to get through my head that it is nearly time for Christmas and a new year! Without cold weather, and in a place where the temperature is increasing in this time of the year, my body and mind just aren't feeling Christmas-y. The fact that we are singing Christmas songs every day with the children helps to orient me. We four are all looking forward to experiencing Christmas and New Years traditions here.
Soon after, on January 2, it will be time to say "goodbye" to this unique place and new friends.....and we'll fly back to the Ecuador mainland, and then board a bus in Guayaquil to go all of the way to Lima, Peru, a 26 hour ride, more or less (most likely more!). The deadline we want to meet in Lima is to arrive in time for the annual South American Suzuki Festival. And because of the lovely ways that God provides for us......through the connections of church family....we will have lodging in Lima in a house owned by a Mennonite Brethren church.
The new, revised schedule for the remaining months is as follows....and as always, is subject to adjustments!
Jan 2: flight from San Cristobal to Guayaquil, spend two nights
Jan 4-5: bus from Guayaquil to Lima
Jan 6-17: Suzuki Festival and sight-seeing in Lima
Jan 18: bus to La Merced, northeast of Lima, where the mountains and rainforest meet
Jan 18-Feb 20: teaching music in a municipal summer program for children; staying with friends of friends in a one floor apartment (noon meals shared, others on our own)
Feb 21-23: travel back to Lima and then to Cusco (by plane)
Feb 23-end of May: near Cusco at La Promesa, a Mennonite school; helping with a new music program, teaching/tutoring English; Magdalena and Luisa will attend school; housing isn't confirmed yet
Late May-late June: return to Ecuador; visit the Ross Richer family in the Amazon region
Late June: return to the good ole USA
A song in the grocery store (Teresa)
Often when we are trying to locate a particular item we go from store to store asking and looking around. Most stores are quite small, the size of a small convenience store, but somehow carry a surprising variety of items. If we check enough stores we'll eventually find the item we need -- a water bottle, mozerella, or hair conditioner.
One day recently I was looking around for fresh papaya and wandered into a grocery store I hadn't visited before. After not seeing any fresh produce I looked around, curious as to what canned fruits they carry. As I looked over the shelves, I heard a low voice and the tune of a familiar preschool song. I looked around, but saw no one; the song must've been in my head. I continued to look around the store and again heard a clear, soft voice singing, "pon, pon, pon, pon, pon-y, pon, pon el dedito el la manita." (Translation: put, put, put, put, put-y, put, put your little finger in your little hand). What a sweet voice; it was not in my head but I still couldn't locate it.
I walked up to the counter to pay for a few items, and the owner greeted me with a smile. He motioned to his young son who was on the floor behind the counter, also smiling. The father explained that his son had identified me as his music teacher. At this point the boy was too shy to sing but now I knew whose sweet voice I had heard earlier. What a delight to hear "our" songs being enjoyed beyond the classroom!
One day recently I was looking around for fresh papaya and wandered into a grocery store I hadn't visited before. After not seeing any fresh produce I looked around, curious as to what canned fruits they carry. As I looked over the shelves, I heard a low voice and the tune of a familiar preschool song. I looked around, but saw no one; the song must've been in my head. I continued to look around the store and again heard a clear, soft voice singing, "pon, pon, pon, pon, pon-y, pon, pon el dedito el la manita." (Translation: put, put, put, put, put-y, put, put your little finger in your little hand). What a sweet voice; it was not in my head but I still couldn't locate it.
I walked up to the counter to pay for a few items, and the owner greeted me with a smile. He motioned to his young son who was on the floor behind the counter, also smiling. The father explained that his son had identified me as his music teacher. At this point the boy was too shy to sing but now I knew whose sweet voice I had heard earlier. What a delight to hear "our" songs being enjoyed beyond the classroom!
Sunday, December 7, 2014
Las Loritas, The Parrots (Teresa)
Yes, we have parrots in our house. They are in the form of Luisa and Ashanti, who are very similar in their love of talking....on and on....about most anything....especially when they are supposed to be eating! Luisa first earned this nickname at the dinner table a few weeks ago once she became comfortable enough with Spanish to begin joking, teasing, and generally having a good conversational time. Our housekeeper was the first to call her "La Lorita" but we all thought it very appropriate so it stuck. Soon, Luisa and Ashanti were engaging in continuous dialogue and banter, such that that they are together known as "Las Loritas"! (Sure wish we had the wifi capacity to post videos!) Parents are entertained, but also have begun to set some deadlines for eating.....like "whomever is the last to finish the meal gets to wash all of the dishes," and there are lots to wash with this big group!
Christmas is in the air (Magdalena)
With Christmas being just a few weeks away we are preparing both at school and at home. At school we have started singing Christmas songs. Each class has their own song that will be shared at the Christmas program. We also have two Christmas songs that the whole preschool will sing together: Feliz Navidad (bilingual) and Hoy es Navidad (a version of Jingle Bells in Spanish). A few of the songs that we are singing are new to our family including Campana Sobre Campana and Mi Burrito Sabanero (both Ecuadorean/Latin Amercian). These songs are each sung by three year old classes. Campana Sobre Campana is about Christmas bells, bells in Bethlehem, and singing angels. Mi Burrito Sabanero is about a donkey that carries a child to see baby Jesus, about the long way to Bethlehem, and singing with a guitar while the donkey keeps trotting. (For fun, google this song to listen to many versions and remixes! It's very catchy!) We made jingle bell bracelets to go along with the songs and they work well. Every class will have some kind of hat that the teachers or parents will make to go along with their song. Also every classroom has a Christmas tree (most are full sized) and most rooms have lots of decorations such as Santa heads, candy canes and other American-looking stuff.
Last week Luisa and I helped Ashanti and Yolanda decorate the tree at our house. They had so many ornaments that we kept thinking we were done but then they would bring another box. We didn't end up putting them all on. Also Yolanda loves Christmas decorations so we got all of the decorations out and put most of the on the coffee table in the middle of the living room. The table is big but is full of decor. Every house has a tree in their front window and ours even has music. There are lots of Christmas lights downtown and stars on the light posts. Today Kassandra and Isabel made sugar cookies in the shapes of Christmas trees, Santas, snowmen and bells. (We helped, too.) There is no snow here but I think Santa will still come.
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
The Last Day On Isabela (Magdalena)
Today (Tuesday) was our last day on Isabela and we still had so much to do. Last night we planned what we would do today so that we would be sure to get everything in. Yesterday we started a walk that I really liked but it was getting dark so we didn't get to go very far. I knew that there was a lot to see there and I REALLY wanted to go back and see it all. A couple of days ago Luisa and I had gone to the Galapaguera which we had later told our family about and they all wanted to go see it. And we had to do both of these things, find breakfast, and find lunch before one o'clock when a taxi was going to take us to the airport for our two o'clock flight.
So this morning Luisa, my dad and me woke up by 6:15, got dressed and headed to the bakery to buy cheese empanadas for breakfast. We walked, eating our empanadas, downtown to rent bikes. It seemed like not much was open yet so we had ten minutes to spare until seven o'clock when the bike rental shop would be open. My dad decided that he needed coffee so we went to a restaurant and he had some coffee while we finished off our empanadas. The owner of the restaurant pointed us to a bike rental that she said was open early so we walked the block there. The bike rental was actually a general store that also rented bikes. They had ten there and it costed two dollars an hour for each bike. We got bikes and headed down the road along the beach.
At first, this road was sandy and at points it was hard to bike but then after about two kilometers the beach stopped and the road began to move away from the water. At this point there were bathrooms and a sign saying that we were entering the "Humaldes" section of the national park. From here, the end of the road would be about three and a half kilometers ending with the wall of tears. There were lots of little paths to go down on the way to the wall but we didn't stop on the way there. At a couple of spots where there were lots of mangrove trees they formed a tunnel over the road which was really cool. We went through different zones on the way to the wall: first the beach, then the forest, then the area with cactus and shrubs, and then a different kind of forest. The area with the cactus and shrubs had signs that were pictures that meant either don't touch the tortoises or else don't feed the tortoises. This meant that there were supposed to be wild tortoises there but we didn't see any on the way.
We finally got to the end of the road. We got off our bikes and put them in the bike racks and headed down the path to the wall of tears. This wall was made between 1946 and 1959 by prisoners that were on Isabela. They were forced to build the wall with huge blocks of lava. The wall was 7 meters high and 100 meters long and wasn't built for a purpose other than to punish the prisoners. We also could walk up and around the wall to see the other side. Then we walked back to our bikes and headed to Cerro Orchilla which was a steep hill that we walked up to the top to the look-out where we could see a beautiful view of everything. Then we walked back down and biked to El Estero. On the way there we saw three tortoises in the wild! One was eating a piece of prickly pear cactus that had broken off and fallen on the ground. Another was walking across the road. At El Estero there was a walk that had all four types of mangrove: white, black, red and button. It was really dense and felt like we were walking through a tiny tunnel that we had to duck through. Then the path lead out to a tiny beach beside a stream that smelled like sulfur and had lots of mangroves in it. The sign here said that this stream had been the source of water for the prisoners that built the wall of tears. Then we walked back and biked to Poza Escondida (Hidden Lagoon). This lagoon was very hidden. Again we walked through denseness and ended up at a hidden lagoon. It was really pretty because it was completely surrounded by dense mangrove forest. We walked back and biked to Poza Redonda (Round Lagoon). This was another lagoon that had very nice birds. Next we biked to Túnel Del Estero. This was a lava tunnel that had caved in at one spot so that we could go down inside of it. There was also some water in it. The next stop was Mirador Los Tunos. This was a path that took us to two lagoons. The smaller lagoon was surrounded by lava rock because it was a collapsed lava tunnel. That was the last stop and we headed back really fast to be sure to keep our schedule.
We returned our bikes and walked back to our hostal, arriving at about 9:40. My mom, grandma and grandpa had had breakfast on their own while we were gone. Then we all walked toward downtown to catch a taxi to the Galapaguera (1.5 km from town). We asked to get dropped off a little bit farther than the Galapaguera at a man made lagoon where there were nine flamingos. We also saw common gallinules, black necked stilts and white cheeked pintails. We stayed there for a bit, looking at the birds, and then walked to the Galapaguera. The Galapaguera had two types of tortoises: the ones from Cerro Azul (Blue Hill) and the ones from Sierra Negra (Black Mountain Range) (the two southern volcanos on Isabela). There was also a little museum to learn more about giant tortoises. The eggs of giant tortoises are very fragile. They cannot be turned at all which is probably a reason that the mom lays her eggs buried underground. Once baby tortoises hatch underground they have to dig for about 30 days until they get out into the open. The shell of baby tortoises is as soft as an ear cartilage which is why so many tortoise babies die because many animals and people can hurt and kill them. Most of their predators are introduced animals such as wild pigs, donkeys, cows, ants, rats and dogs. Once we were finished in the museum my grandma asked, "Did somebody say there was a gift shop?" So we went to the gift shop. My dad and I bought popsicles, my grandpa bought a cap and my mom bought a couple shirts for friends.
On the way back to town we walked on a really nice path that took us through forest and cactus and across a few lagoons. We saw more white cheeked pintails in those lagoons. Then when we got to town we had an hour before we were supposed to be picked up to go to the airport. So we decided where to eat (which, as always, took forever) and after we had ordered Luisa spotted a couple of guys that were climbing up coconut trees and collecting coconuts. Luisa and my mom went over and bought two from them and they chopped off the tops with their machete and stuck in a straw. Then they came back to our restaurant and we ate a great meal ending at 12:45 which gave us just enough time to walk back to our hostal. Even though the taxi was supposed to pick us up at one it didn't end up coming until 1:30. But that ended up being fine because at the tiny airport all we had to do was show them our bags and they put tags on them and we were ready to get on our six person airplane.
Finally they let us board. We climbed into the plane and it was so tiny all of us had to duck. On the inside it felt the same size as a minivan. After the six of us had gotten in the pilot squeezed his way between us and squeezed into his seat. The airplane ride was short but we got to see a lot. When we took off we could see Los Cuatro Hermanos (islets off of Isabela), Isla Tortuga (a small island off of Isabela), Isla Pinzón (faintly), Isla Santa Cruz, Isla Santa Fe, Isla Floreana (in the distance), and finally, Isla San Cristóbal. The airplane landed and we got our picture taken with the plane.
So this morning Luisa, my dad and me woke up by 6:15, got dressed and headed to the bakery to buy cheese empanadas for breakfast. We walked, eating our empanadas, downtown to rent bikes. It seemed like not much was open yet so we had ten minutes to spare until seven o'clock when the bike rental shop would be open. My dad decided that he needed coffee so we went to a restaurant and he had some coffee while we finished off our empanadas. The owner of the restaurant pointed us to a bike rental that she said was open early so we walked the block there. The bike rental was actually a general store that also rented bikes. They had ten there and it costed two dollars an hour for each bike. We got bikes and headed down the road along the beach.
At first, this road was sandy and at points it was hard to bike but then after about two kilometers the beach stopped and the road began to move away from the water. At this point there were bathrooms and a sign saying that we were entering the "Humaldes" section of the national park. From here, the end of the road would be about three and a half kilometers ending with the wall of tears. There were lots of little paths to go down on the way to the wall but we didn't stop on the way there. At a couple of spots where there were lots of mangrove trees they formed a tunnel over the road which was really cool. We went through different zones on the way to the wall: first the beach, then the forest, then the area with cactus and shrubs, and then a different kind of forest. The area with the cactus and shrubs had signs that were pictures that meant either don't touch the tortoises or else don't feed the tortoises. This meant that there were supposed to be wild tortoises there but we didn't see any on the way.
We finally got to the end of the road. We got off our bikes and put them in the bike racks and headed down the path to the wall of tears. This wall was made between 1946 and 1959 by prisoners that were on Isabela. They were forced to build the wall with huge blocks of lava. The wall was 7 meters high and 100 meters long and wasn't built for a purpose other than to punish the prisoners. We also could walk up and around the wall to see the other side. Then we walked back to our bikes and headed to Cerro Orchilla which was a steep hill that we walked up to the top to the look-out where we could see a beautiful view of everything. Then we walked back down and biked to El Estero. On the way there we saw three tortoises in the wild! One was eating a piece of prickly pear cactus that had broken off and fallen on the ground. Another was walking across the road. At El Estero there was a walk that had all four types of mangrove: white, black, red and button. It was really dense and felt like we were walking through a tiny tunnel that we had to duck through. Then the path lead out to a tiny beach beside a stream that smelled like sulfur and had lots of mangroves in it. The sign here said that this stream had been the source of water for the prisoners that built the wall of tears. Then we walked back and biked to Poza Escondida (Hidden Lagoon). This lagoon was very hidden. Again we walked through denseness and ended up at a hidden lagoon. It was really pretty because it was completely surrounded by dense mangrove forest. We walked back and biked to Poza Redonda (Round Lagoon). This was another lagoon that had very nice birds. Next we biked to Túnel Del Estero. This was a lava tunnel that had caved in at one spot so that we could go down inside of it. There was also some water in it. The next stop was Mirador Los Tunos. This was a path that took us to two lagoons. The smaller lagoon was surrounded by lava rock because it was a collapsed lava tunnel. That was the last stop and we headed back really fast to be sure to keep our schedule.
We returned our bikes and walked back to our hostal, arriving at about 9:40. My mom, grandma and grandpa had had breakfast on their own while we were gone. Then we all walked toward downtown to catch a taxi to the Galapaguera (1.5 km from town). We asked to get dropped off a little bit farther than the Galapaguera at a man made lagoon where there were nine flamingos. We also saw common gallinules, black necked stilts and white cheeked pintails. We stayed there for a bit, looking at the birds, and then walked to the Galapaguera. The Galapaguera had two types of tortoises: the ones from Cerro Azul (Blue Hill) and the ones from Sierra Negra (Black Mountain Range) (the two southern volcanos on Isabela). There was also a little museum to learn more about giant tortoises. The eggs of giant tortoises are very fragile. They cannot be turned at all which is probably a reason that the mom lays her eggs buried underground. Once baby tortoises hatch underground they have to dig for about 30 days until they get out into the open. The shell of baby tortoises is as soft as an ear cartilage which is why so many tortoise babies die because many animals and people can hurt and kill them. Most of their predators are introduced animals such as wild pigs, donkeys, cows, ants, rats and dogs. Once we were finished in the museum my grandma asked, "Did somebody say there was a gift shop?" So we went to the gift shop. My dad and I bought popsicles, my grandpa bought a cap and my mom bought a couple shirts for friends.
On the way back to town we walked on a really nice path that took us through forest and cactus and across a few lagoons. We saw more white cheeked pintails in those lagoons. Then when we got to town we had an hour before we were supposed to be picked up to go to the airport. So we decided where to eat (which, as always, took forever) and after we had ordered Luisa spotted a couple of guys that were climbing up coconut trees and collecting coconuts. Luisa and my mom went over and bought two from them and they chopped off the tops with their machete and stuck in a straw. Then they came back to our restaurant and we ate a great meal ending at 12:45 which gave us just enough time to walk back to our hostal. Even though the taxi was supposed to pick us up at one it didn't end up coming until 1:30. But that ended up being fine because at the tiny airport all we had to do was show them our bags and they put tags on them and we were ready to get on our six person airplane.
Finally they let us board. We climbed into the plane and it was so tiny all of us had to duck. On the inside it felt the same size as a minivan. After the six of us had gotten in the pilot squeezed his way between us and squeezed into his seat. The airplane ride was short but we got to see a lot. When we took off we could see Los Cuatro Hermanos (islets off of Isabela), Isla Tortuga (a small island off of Isabela), Isla Pinzón (faintly), Isla Santa Cruz, Isla Santa Fe, Isla Floreana (in the distance), and finally, Isla San Cristóbal. The airplane landed and we got our picture taken with the plane.
Las Tintoreras (Kent)
On Tuesday (day 3 of our trip to Isabela Island), we went on a short boat ride to "Las Tintoreras." "Las Tintoreras" is Spanish for white tipped fin sharks, which are nocturnal sharks that rest in caves and calm water during the day. Even though we had seen these sharks up close while snorkeling the day before, my Mom (who had opted not to snorkel), hadn't seen them. What was exciting about this particular guided trip, which included a hike, a boat ride and snorkeling, was that we had a chance to see the white tipped fin sharks without going in the water. We were also very excited about the possibility of seeing Galápagos penguins, the smallest and most northern penguins in the world.
Unlike the previous day where we went on a long boat ride to get to our destination, we never got up to full speed on this boat ride because the destination was so close. The islets, like many things on Isabela, are made up of lava rock which juts out of the bay in a variety of interesting shapes and formations. Some of the islets have little "rivers" running through them. Some have cactus growing on them. Some have lots of mangrove trees crawling up and over the edges. As we were marveling at these strange sites, our tour guide said "penguins!" We looked at where he was pointing and we saw blue footed boobies, which, with their bright blue feet and white and brown feathers, stand out among the black lava rocks. We strained our eyes, and saw these smaller black blobs on the rocks. With their black backs to us, it was hard to distinguish them from the rocks, but sure enough, there were three there. (Later we would return to this site and see 7-8). Only in the Galapagos can you see an islet with cactus and marine iguanas and then turn around and see another islet with blue footed boobies, penguins and mangroves!
Most of the Galápagos penguins live on the other side of Isabela, in the waters between Fernandina Island and Isabela. There are only about 20-30 penguins in the Tintoreras area, and they always return to the Fernandina area to lay their eggs. During the morning the Galápagos penguins are often fishing so we were very happy that we saw some. We were also very surprised how small they were. At 1.5 feet in height, they are much smaller than the blue footed boobies, who can grow to be 2.56 feet tall. On our second sighting of the penguins, we were able to see them swim to shore, scoot up onto the rocks, and waddle-hop their way up to higher ground. We were also fortunate to see them swim in the water. I try to refrain from over using the word "cute," but these penguins are definitely cute!
So why are there penguins at the Equator? One of the things that makes the Galapagos unique and full of sea life is that there are four ocean currents that converge at the islands. One of those currents, the Humboldt current, is a cold current that originates in the the Antarctica. The ancestors of these guys probably rode this current up to the Galapagos. These waters are cold, which the penguins like.
The islet we hiked on was a field of black lava rocks decorated with white and green splotches. Most of the lava rocks in the islands are decorated with white splotches thanks to the many sea bird droppings. But these white splotches were lichen, and the green was algae. Along the path we were greeted by many scurrying lava lizards and many basking marine iguanas. The male marine iguanas are much bigger than the females. Males feed on the algae on the ocean floor and females feed on algae that is exposed when the tides are low. Because of their smaller size, females are not big and strong enough to brave the strong ocean currents and waves.
On our islet hike we were also introduced to two of the four different kinds of mangrove trees in the Galapagos: red mangroves and white mangroves. From a boat the mangroves look like they have two distinct sections: the leaves and the roots, with a straight line between the two showing how high the tide goes. With a close-up view on land, it doesn't appear so straight forward. The roots are more hidden and the branches look as though they are one big tangled mess. The roots and the branches are of similar widths and it's less clear where the root starts and the branches start.
Towards the end of our hike our guide led us to an area where the water and all of the fish in it were "trapped" in a skinny lagoon of water between rocks because it was low tide. In this water, which had a depth of maybe 4-5 feet, swam an adult white tipped fin shark, about 4-5 feet in length. Back and forth it paced the narrow lagoon, giving us a much better chance to observe this creature than the previous day of snorkeling. The water surface was about 5-6 feet below our feet and it was amazing to observe a shark so close up and from land.
Our hour spent snorkeling was great from the moment we belly flopped into the shallow depths of the lava rock shore. Immediately we were greeted by small colorful fish. Snorkeling is like entering another world. A world where the only sounds are of your own breathing. A world that has it's own hills, cliffs, tunnels, caves and valleys. A world where strange creatures that you've never seen before either float right on by you or lay before you as you try to comprehend what it is that you are seeing. A world full of lava and strange coral.
We saw many sea turtles (even caught a couple in the act of mating!) and tropical fish of all colors and sizes. We say eagle rays, trumpet fish, dog crabs and sea cucumbers all for the first time. Although we have seen many marine iguanas on land, we hadn't seen very many actually swimming. When you're snorkeling in a group with a guide, someone will often shout out something exciting like "turtle" or "iguana!" When I heard "iguana!" I turned around to see one headed straight for me. It's quite a shock to see this strange animal headed straight at you with it's stern face set on you and it's long tail whipping it forward. I laughed and shouted at the same time because it was both hilarious and alarming. I started to back away, but it then glided around me. When they are swimming to shore they swim with their head out of the water and the rest of their body floating just under the surface.
Luisa was particularly adept at finding sea stars. She was especially fond of the chocolate chip sea stars and the pyramid blue sea stars. She'd find one, tap me on the shoulder and lead me to it, pointing vigorously in the water. Once, when pointing to a chocolate chip sea star she said, "it looks so perfect and like it just came right out of the oven!" We were also impressed with the pyramid blue sea star with it's glittery, bright blue color and its skinny arms.
The hour spent in the water went by way too fast and I didn't really want to get out of the water, but our tour guide was on a tight schedule. I decided that in our remaining six weeks in the Galapagos that I need to get in as much snorkeling as possible because I probably won't get to snorkel quite like this ever again in my life. It's a real treat to snorkel in the waters of the Galapagos with my family amongst giant sea turtles. It's something I never tire of and makes me feel like I'm a part of God's great creation in a way that nothing else can.
Unlike the previous day where we went on a long boat ride to get to our destination, we never got up to full speed on this boat ride because the destination was so close. The islets, like many things on Isabela, are made up of lava rock which juts out of the bay in a variety of interesting shapes and formations. Some of the islets have little "rivers" running through them. Some have cactus growing on them. Some have lots of mangrove trees crawling up and over the edges. As we were marveling at these strange sites, our tour guide said "penguins!" We looked at where he was pointing and we saw blue footed boobies, which, with their bright blue feet and white and brown feathers, stand out among the black lava rocks. We strained our eyes, and saw these smaller black blobs on the rocks. With their black backs to us, it was hard to distinguish them from the rocks, but sure enough, there were three there. (Later we would return to this site and see 7-8). Only in the Galapagos can you see an islet with cactus and marine iguanas and then turn around and see another islet with blue footed boobies, penguins and mangroves!
Most of the Galápagos penguins live on the other side of Isabela, in the waters between Fernandina Island and Isabela. There are only about 20-30 penguins in the Tintoreras area, and they always return to the Fernandina area to lay their eggs. During the morning the Galápagos penguins are often fishing so we were very happy that we saw some. We were also very surprised how small they were. At 1.5 feet in height, they are much smaller than the blue footed boobies, who can grow to be 2.56 feet tall. On our second sighting of the penguins, we were able to see them swim to shore, scoot up onto the rocks, and waddle-hop their way up to higher ground. We were also fortunate to see them swim in the water. I try to refrain from over using the word "cute," but these penguins are definitely cute!
So why are there penguins at the Equator? One of the things that makes the Galapagos unique and full of sea life is that there are four ocean currents that converge at the islands. One of those currents, the Humboldt current, is a cold current that originates in the the Antarctica. The ancestors of these guys probably rode this current up to the Galapagos. These waters are cold, which the penguins like.
The islet we hiked on was a field of black lava rocks decorated with white and green splotches. Most of the lava rocks in the islands are decorated with white splotches thanks to the many sea bird droppings. But these white splotches were lichen, and the green was algae. Along the path we were greeted by many scurrying lava lizards and many basking marine iguanas. The male marine iguanas are much bigger than the females. Males feed on the algae on the ocean floor and females feed on algae that is exposed when the tides are low. Because of their smaller size, females are not big and strong enough to brave the strong ocean currents and waves.
On our islet hike we were also introduced to two of the four different kinds of mangrove trees in the Galapagos: red mangroves and white mangroves. From a boat the mangroves look like they have two distinct sections: the leaves and the roots, with a straight line between the two showing how high the tide goes. With a close-up view on land, it doesn't appear so straight forward. The roots are more hidden and the branches look as though they are one big tangled mess. The roots and the branches are of similar widths and it's less clear where the root starts and the branches start.
Towards the end of our hike our guide led us to an area where the water and all of the fish in it were "trapped" in a skinny lagoon of water between rocks because it was low tide. In this water, which had a depth of maybe 4-5 feet, swam an adult white tipped fin shark, about 4-5 feet in length. Back and forth it paced the narrow lagoon, giving us a much better chance to observe this creature than the previous day of snorkeling. The water surface was about 5-6 feet below our feet and it was amazing to observe a shark so close up and from land.
Our hour spent snorkeling was great from the moment we belly flopped into the shallow depths of the lava rock shore. Immediately we were greeted by small colorful fish. Snorkeling is like entering another world. A world where the only sounds are of your own breathing. A world that has it's own hills, cliffs, tunnels, caves and valleys. A world where strange creatures that you've never seen before either float right on by you or lay before you as you try to comprehend what it is that you are seeing. A world full of lava and strange coral.
We saw many sea turtles (even caught a couple in the act of mating!) and tropical fish of all colors and sizes. We say eagle rays, trumpet fish, dog crabs and sea cucumbers all for the first time. Although we have seen many marine iguanas on land, we hadn't seen very many actually swimming. When you're snorkeling in a group with a guide, someone will often shout out something exciting like "turtle" or "iguana!" When I heard "iguana!" I turned around to see one headed straight for me. It's quite a shock to see this strange animal headed straight at you with it's stern face set on you and it's long tail whipping it forward. I laughed and shouted at the same time because it was both hilarious and alarming. I started to back away, but it then glided around me. When they are swimming to shore they swim with their head out of the water and the rest of their body floating just under the surface.
Luisa was particularly adept at finding sea stars. She was especially fond of the chocolate chip sea stars and the pyramid blue sea stars. She'd find one, tap me on the shoulder and lead me to it, pointing vigorously in the water. Once, when pointing to a chocolate chip sea star she said, "it looks so perfect and like it just came right out of the oven!" We were also impressed with the pyramid blue sea star with it's glittery, bright blue color and its skinny arms.
The hour spent in the water went by way too fast and I didn't really want to get out of the water, but our tour guide was on a tight schedule. I decided that in our remaining six weeks in the Galapagos that I need to get in as much snorkeling as possible because I probably won't get to snorkel quite like this ever again in my life. It's a real treat to snorkel in the waters of the Galapagos with my family amongst giant sea turtles. It's something I never tire of and makes me feel like I'm a part of God's great creation in a way that nothing else can.
Los Túneles/The Tunnels (Luisa)
On Sunday we went on a boat at around 8:30 with a tour group to go to the tunnels. It took us about 20 minutes to get to Union Rock which is where lots of masked boobies nest. When we got close to Union Rock our guide pointed out what looked like big white fins popping out of the water. But he said that it was actually a manta ray. Then we saw his back come out of the water and it was huge. Our guide said that manta ray's are between 9-15 feet long. The captain of the boat quick got his snorkeling stuff on, got his Go Pro (underwater camera), and jumped into the water to take pictures of the manta ray. Then he got back in the boat and we headed for the tunnels.
When we got to the tunnels we got out of the boat and went on a short walk on top of the tunnels where lots of blue footed boobies nest. We saw lots of blue footed boobie babies and they were so cute but they didn't look much like the adults because the babies were just furry little white birds with grey feet, a grey beak, and black eyes. While the adults have brown wings, blue feet, a bluish beak, and blue eyes. While we were on top of the tunnels we also saw a few sea turtles swimming in the water, a puffer fish, and some parrot fishes that were very colorful. Then we got back on the boat and got ready to snorkel.
When we went snorkeling we saw sea horses, a big turtle, a lobster, white tipped sharks (about 4 feet long), and a sting ray. To see the sharks our guide pushed us one at a time about 2-3 feet under water to see them and one time when he pushed my dad under water two or three sharks swam out of the cave right past him. And then the same thing also happened to Magdalena. And one time when I was looking at the tail of a shark another shark swam right under me and into the cave. Then after a while it was time to get on the boat. We ate a good yummy lunch on the boat and then took off back towards the dock. It was fun getting to see sharks and so many other animals. I am glad we got to go snorkeling at the tunnels.
When we got to the tunnels we got out of the boat and went on a short walk on top of the tunnels where lots of blue footed boobies nest. We saw lots of blue footed boobie babies and they were so cute but they didn't look much like the adults because the babies were just furry little white birds with grey feet, a grey beak, and black eyes. While the adults have brown wings, blue feet, a bluish beak, and blue eyes. While we were on top of the tunnels we also saw a few sea turtles swimming in the water, a puffer fish, and some parrot fishes that were very colorful. Then we got back on the boat and got ready to snorkel.
When we went snorkeling we saw sea horses, a big turtle, a lobster, white tipped sharks (about 4 feet long), and a sting ray. To see the sharks our guide pushed us one at a time about 2-3 feet under water to see them and one time when he pushed my dad under water two or three sharks swam out of the cave right past him. And then the same thing also happened to Magdalena. And one time when I was looking at the tail of a shark another shark swam right under me and into the cave. Then after a while it was time to get on the boat. We ate a good yummy lunch on the boat and then took off back towards the dock. It was fun getting to see sharks and so many other animals. I am glad we got to go snorkeling at the tunnels.
Monday, November 24, 2014
Our first full day on the island of Isabela! (Teresa)
Upon arrival at our hostal last evening, Kent got right on planning day trips for each of our 3 days here. The first day's agenda: rising early to be ready to leave at 7am for a 4 hour volcano hike. After all, as our guide pointed out, this island is simply a collection of volcanoes, which over time ran into each other forming this land mass. We went eagerly, wondering what the day would hold.
The first part of the adventure was our ride, in a passenger truck fashioned from the chassis and cab of a panel truck, with five wooden benches in the back to carry a load of tourists. The driver insisted that Joann sit in the front cab, and I joined her. We circled through town, picking up a few more passengers before heading out and eventually up, to the foot of the Volcan Negro.
I've recorded some highlights of our hike:
Kent -- I enjoyed the fact the all four of us were able to do the strenuous 16 km hike, after having been sick for weeks. I also enjoyed seeing the many formations of lava: shapes of balls, waves, flat areas; sizes ranging from large rocks to small glittering gravel; and colors from orange to black, depending on minerals and sun exposure.
Magdalena -- I like seeing the way the environment changed as we hiked along. At the beginning were lots of trees, including many invasive guava trees, and undergrowth. Further along there were only lower bushes and ferns. Later when the trail was on lava rock only the tall candelabra cactus, as old as 700 years, survived the eruptions. At the furthest and highest point of our hike, no plants grew expect for the occasional fern growing in a lava hole/tunnel.
Luisa -- My favorite part was stopping for lunch, because I don't like thinking of "highlights"!
John -- I was thrilled when the mist cleared and we could see the bottom of the crater. Joann and I stay there for about an hour, and there I saw the thin leafed Darwin bush, an endemic plant (meaning only found in the Galapagos). We also saw the moon flower, of the morning glory family, which is native but not endemic. If you look inside the flower you see a pale green five-pointed star which starts in the throat of the flower and continues to the edge (about 6 inches). There were many invasive plants along the grated road we followed for the first part of the hike. Later, when we were waiting for the group to return I took another foot path and had a beautiful view of the lowlands out to the ocean. Also along this path I found the endemic Galapagos tree fern which grows over 10 ft tall with a spray of fronds at the top of the trunk.
Joann -- I enjoyed watching the birds: the Vermillion Flycatcher; the Galapagos mockingbird; and various kinds of Darwin finches (which I attempted to identify). The birds were friendly; the mockingbirds explored John's fanny pack, and others came very close.
Teresa -- once we reached the furthest and highest point of the trip, at Volcan Chico, the view was incredible! In the distance we could see: the layers of lava sloping down to the green lowlands; the shape of the rest of Isabela to the north, including a few more volcanoes; two other islands, Santiago and Fernandina; and of course, the vast ocean. Also at this point, we spotted a small lava lizard (5-8 in), which are commonplace all over the islands. But, we wondered: how could this lizard possibly survive in a seemingly "dead area" surrounded only by hardened lava? Our guide explained that various insects (like flies and grasshoppers) ultimately arrive at this point, carried on the wind from the green areas above, and make a good feast for this little guy. We left the lizard to his terrific survival instincts, and headed back to civilization.
The first part of the adventure was our ride, in a passenger truck fashioned from the chassis and cab of a panel truck, with five wooden benches in the back to carry a load of tourists. The driver insisted that Joann sit in the front cab, and I joined her. We circled through town, picking up a few more passengers before heading out and eventually up, to the foot of the Volcan Negro.
I've recorded some highlights of our hike:
Kent -- I enjoyed the fact the all four of us were able to do the strenuous 16 km hike, after having been sick for weeks. I also enjoyed seeing the many formations of lava: shapes of balls, waves, flat areas; sizes ranging from large rocks to small glittering gravel; and colors from orange to black, depending on minerals and sun exposure.
Magdalena -- I like seeing the way the environment changed as we hiked along. At the beginning were lots of trees, including many invasive guava trees, and undergrowth. Further along there were only lower bushes and ferns. Later when the trail was on lava rock only the tall candelabra cactus, as old as 700 years, survived the eruptions. At the furthest and highest point of our hike, no plants grew expect for the occasional fern growing in a lava hole/tunnel.
Luisa -- My favorite part was stopping for lunch, because I don't like thinking of "highlights"!
John -- I was thrilled when the mist cleared and we could see the bottom of the crater. Joann and I stay there for about an hour, and there I saw the thin leafed Darwin bush, an endemic plant (meaning only found in the Galapagos). We also saw the moon flower, of the morning glory family, which is native but not endemic. If you look inside the flower you see a pale green five-pointed star which starts in the throat of the flower and continues to the edge (about 6 inches). There were many invasive plants along the grated road we followed for the first part of the hike. Later, when we were waiting for the group to return I took another foot path and had a beautiful view of the lowlands out to the ocean. Also along this path I found the endemic Galapagos tree fern which grows over 10 ft tall with a spray of fronds at the top of the trunk.
Joann -- I enjoyed watching the birds: the Vermillion Flycatcher; the Galapagos mockingbird; and various kinds of Darwin finches (which I attempted to identify). The birds were friendly; the mockingbirds explored John's fanny pack, and others came very close.
Teresa -- once we reached the furthest and highest point of the trip, at Volcan Chico, the view was incredible! In the distance we could see: the layers of lava sloping down to the green lowlands; the shape of the rest of Isabela to the north, including a few more volcanoes; two other islands, Santiago and Fernandina; and of course, the vast ocean. Also at this point, we spotted a small lava lizard (5-8 in), which are commonplace all over the islands. But, we wondered: how could this lizard possibly survive in a seemingly "dead area" surrounded only by hardened lava? Our guide explained that various insects (like flies and grasshoppers) ultimately arrive at this point, carried on the wind from the green areas above, and make a good feast for this little guy. We left the lizard to his terrific survival instincts, and headed back to civilization.
Arriving on Isabela (Magdalena)
On Friday we (the four of us plus our Smith grandparents) headed to Isabela Island. We left around seven o'clock in the morning from San Cristóbal and arrived at Santa Cruz (the in-between island which is the most populated and the most city like) around 9:30. The tide was low and so there weren't very high of waves for our first trip. When we arrived we actually had to take a water taxi from the boat to the pier that costed fifty cents per person. Then we went on what seemed like a really long walk with all of our luggage (two suitcases, three heavy backpacks and two small bags) to the Darwin Interpretation Center. Lucky for us, the man at the reception desk asked us if we wanted to put our luggage inside, which we did. The main building was closed for construction or something which was a bummer because my dad and grandpa were really looking forward to reading every single sentence of history in there. So we went further and found lots of giant tortoises and lots of baby giant tortoises. And we saw land iguanas which was new to us because on San Cristóbal there aren't land iguanas, only marine iguanas. Then we walked back to the front to get our luggage again and then we walked back into town. We wanted to take a taxi but most of the way was a driveway and everybody said that the taxis don't come back there. Once we got into town we looked for a place to eat that would be cheap. Most of them weren't but we found a really good pizza place that was cheapish. By the time we finished it was about 1:15 so we headed back to the pier to catch our two o'clock boat to Isabela. It cost us another fifty cents per person on the water taxi to get to our boat.
Right when the boat started to move I could tell this trip was going to be a rough one. The waves were much larger than they had been in the morning. Within the first five minutes we had already flown through the air a few times and I was already feeling sick. As we travelled on, a lot of people had their eyes closed as if they were sleeping but I figured it was just an attempt to make them feel a little less sick. Luisa took a nap on my shoulder. The girl I was sitting across from threw-up. Then her friend beside her threw-up. Then the French man in the front threw-up. Then the hippie in the back, and then the first girl again, and then the French man, and then the hippie's boyfriend, and then the second girl again.
Finally after two and half long hours, we were at Isabela. The water taxis came to the boat again and this time it costed us a dollar per person. But nobody cared because everyone just wanted to get onto land. Once we got onto the pier we had to pay five dollars per person just to enter the island or something. Then we got our luggage and went to the parking lot where we looked for the guy that was supposed to pick us up. We didn't know his name or what he looked like but there were only four trucks in the parking lot and three were taken. The fourth was a taxi and it looked like our guy wasn't going to show so we hopped in the taxi and told him which hostal we were looking for. As we drove through town I looked around and loved what I saw. This island, the least populated of the three populated islands, didn't have paved roads. I never thought of paved roads as something that stood out but looking at Isabela it felt like being back in rural Guerrero Mexico. It also felt like a small town where everybody knew and trusted each other and where there is sometimes hot water but mostly there is not. But it's a nice town so nobody cares.
Then we arrived at the hostal which is a three story building with about ten rooms. In front there is a grass hut/pavilion sort of place. A grass pavilion with five hammocks, a TV, a picnic table with fresh fruit on it and a whiteboard with the tours that they offer. Behind that is the open air kitchen that anyone can use to make meals, make coffee or cut up the fresh fruit from the table. There is also a wash station which I haven't seen but I imagine that means washed by hand. Then we saw the little building that says "receptionist" but nobody was in there. The German couple in the kitchen told us that there is another hostal nearby that has the same name as this one and that the same guy runs it. They told us he's normally over there. So my dad went over to get him. A few minutes later my dad came back with the manager. He hadn't remembered that we were coming because we had reserved it over a month ahead of time so naturally he had forgotten. He only had one room with a double and three singles. He said that some people should be leaving tomorrow so we should get another room tomorrow but for now this was all he had. We said it would be fine. Luisa and I can share a single bed.
My grandma was still feeling awful from the boat ride so she went right to bed and requested some 7-up or some other lemony pop for when she woke up. So the other five of us went on a quest for something of that sort and in the third store, we found Sprite. Then we went to a panadería to buy some bread for breakfast. They told us that they open at six in the morning so we just decided to come back when it was breakfast time. We took the pop back to the hostal and then the five of us went out for supper just around the corner. The food was good but there was a lot of food so I was the only one who finished. Then we returned to the hostal and we all took ice cold and/or boiling hot showers and got in bed.
Now my dad and grandpa are having a snoring contest that sometimes Luisa joins into. Ugghhh!
Editor's note: thanks to Grandma Joann's planning and and experience with motion sickness, all of us had appropriate meds and treatments for sea-sickness and did not suffer too much on the boat trips!
Right when the boat started to move I could tell this trip was going to be a rough one. The waves were much larger than they had been in the morning. Within the first five minutes we had already flown through the air a few times and I was already feeling sick. As we travelled on, a lot of people had their eyes closed as if they were sleeping but I figured it was just an attempt to make them feel a little less sick. Luisa took a nap on my shoulder. The girl I was sitting across from threw-up. Then her friend beside her threw-up. Then the French man in the front threw-up. Then the hippie in the back, and then the first girl again, and then the French man, and then the hippie's boyfriend, and then the second girl again.
Finally after two and half long hours, we were at Isabela. The water taxis came to the boat again and this time it costed us a dollar per person. But nobody cared because everyone just wanted to get onto land. Once we got onto the pier we had to pay five dollars per person just to enter the island or something. Then we got our luggage and went to the parking lot where we looked for the guy that was supposed to pick us up. We didn't know his name or what he looked like but there were only four trucks in the parking lot and three were taken. The fourth was a taxi and it looked like our guy wasn't going to show so we hopped in the taxi and told him which hostal we were looking for. As we drove through town I looked around and loved what I saw. This island, the least populated of the three populated islands, didn't have paved roads. I never thought of paved roads as something that stood out but looking at Isabela it felt like being back in rural Guerrero Mexico. It also felt like a small town where everybody knew and trusted each other and where there is sometimes hot water but mostly there is not. But it's a nice town so nobody cares.
Then we arrived at the hostal which is a three story building with about ten rooms. In front there is a grass hut/pavilion sort of place. A grass pavilion with five hammocks, a TV, a picnic table with fresh fruit on it and a whiteboard with the tours that they offer. Behind that is the open air kitchen that anyone can use to make meals, make coffee or cut up the fresh fruit from the table. There is also a wash station which I haven't seen but I imagine that means washed by hand. Then we saw the little building that says "receptionist" but nobody was in there. The German couple in the kitchen told us that there is another hostal nearby that has the same name as this one and that the same guy runs it. They told us he's normally over there. So my dad went over to get him. A few minutes later my dad came back with the manager. He hadn't remembered that we were coming because we had reserved it over a month ahead of time so naturally he had forgotten. He only had one room with a double and three singles. He said that some people should be leaving tomorrow so we should get another room tomorrow but for now this was all he had. We said it would be fine. Luisa and I can share a single bed.
My grandma was still feeling awful from the boat ride so she went right to bed and requested some 7-up or some other lemony pop for when she woke up. So the other five of us went on a quest for something of that sort and in the third store, we found Sprite. Then we went to a panadería to buy some bread for breakfast. They told us that they open at six in the morning so we just decided to come back when it was breakfast time. We took the pop back to the hostal and then the five of us went out for supper just around the corner. The food was good but there was a lot of food so I was the only one who finished. Then we returned to the hostal and we all took ice cold and/or boiling hot showers and got in bed.
Now my dad and grandpa are having a snoring contest that sometimes Luisa joins into. Ugghhh!
Editor's note: thanks to Grandma Joann's planning and and experience with motion sickness, all of us had appropriate meds and treatments for sea-sickness and did not suffer too much on the boat trips!
Saturday, November 15, 2014
The Big Fail ("half empty" title) or A Day of Learning ("half-full" title) by Kent
Everyone knows the concept of learning from your mistakes. The learning curve is higher when in another culture, which means more mistakes and more learning, hopefully. Today on the island was a bike parade. Luisa, Ashanti (11), and I were all excited to participate. I had the brilliant idea of making two fishing boats out of cardboard that would go around a tandem that Luisa and I were going to rent, and another one for Ashanti and her bike. I was hoping that it would be a project that we could all work on together. We should be able to do that in one afternoon, right? (Ha!)
Around noon, Luisa and Magdalena were invited to Nora's 9 year old birthday party. Nora is the only other "volunteer child." The party was at 3:30. Birthday parties trump all, especially in Luisa's world. Teresa was currently the sickest of us all (in a two week family bout of bad coughs and cold) and was out of the parenting picture. So, it was up to me to help get the girls to the party. The invitation had the address on it, but it was illegible to us. We went to the volunteer office when it reopened at 2:00, to get help on figuring out where Nora's host family lives. Judy, the office secretary, had hand delivered the invitation, so she was our best bet. There are no numbered street addresses here. Since this is a small town where "everyone knows everyone," what's most important is name of the "head male" of the house. The invitation had the name of the cross streets and a landmark, but not the name of the head male. All we had to do now was get a taxi, show the name, and for one dollar, they will take you there. Learning #1: All you need is the family name for directions.
On the way back I went to reserve the tandem. However and went to take pictures of fishing boats, all of which are white with a light aqua trim. I had originally thought of painting the boat whatever color, but Yolanda, the family matriarch, said that if it was a fishing boat it had to be white with blue. Learning #2: fishing boats are white with blue trim. You can't paint it any other colors.
I then stopped at a store that had a lot of crushed cardboard boxes in their front window and brought them back to the house. I then went to the hardware store to buy white paint, blue paint, and good tape. Many stores here have everything behind the counter, especially hardware stores, pharmacies and school supply stores. So, when going to stores you really need to know the vocabulary of what you want, because you can't just go around and "shop." I decided to get 2 cans of white spray paint, because that would be a short cut. A liter of blue paint was actually cheaper than a can of spray paint. I decided not to get duct tape because that was $13 a roll. Clear packing tape was much cheaper (less than $2). My total for this project was around $13. Not bad, I thought. I went to pay and the woman said she needed my passport number. Why? Learning #3: you need a passport when you buy spray paint.
After returning from the hardware store for the second time, the girls were ready with the standard Dutchersmith present of nose flute and one of our CDs. They were frantically trying to finish a knitted gift bag, but ran out of time. "We can give it to her later" Luisa said. We walked down the street and I flagged a taxi. There are many taxis around town, and I think we know three taxi drivers by name. It just so happened that one of these 3 stopped to pick us up. It was Manuel from the indigenous band I've been playing with! He didn't actually know who Oscar Puga (head of house) was, but he did know the cross streets. He took us to the place, I stayed a bit to chat and to take a few pictures of the "party room" which was decorated to the hilt with streamers and balloons dangling from the ceiling. I the walked home, probably about a half mile. Learning #4: Learning #1 sometimes doesn't work, so make sure you know the cross streets of where you are going.
When I came back home, I realized that I was already running out of steam and the project hadn't even started yet! So, I took a coffee break. It wasn't really until 4:00 that Ashanti and I started on the project. Learning #5: Projects always take longer than I think, especially when in another culture.
So, we laid out boxes and started making Ashanti's boat. After much taping and piecing things together, I had learned two more things. Learning #6: boxes that have been used to ship things half way around the world are not very sturdy and bend too much. Learning #7: Duct tape is the best tape in the world and if you want to build a boat out of cardboard, and other tape won't work.
Even though I was beginning to feel as though this boat project might not "float," I pressed onward mostly because I don't like letting 11 year old children down. We started pushing through "support sticks" that were to keep the frame up and off the rider. It was looking more and more flimsy by the minute. I still wasn't exactly sure how I would be able to support the whole thing on the bike without it rubbing the rider, not to mention the problem of what happens when you steer the thing if one of the support structures is the handlebars. (Re)learning #8: I'm not as handy as I think I am.
Nevertheless, I pressed onward! Time to paint! Ashanti and I took the flimsy boat out near the road where we would be sure not to spray paint onto other things. I have a lot of experience with brushing on house paint. Not so much with spray paint. Learning #9: If you want a nice thick coat of paint, don't use spray paint.
Just then Pepe and Yolanda (the heads of our house), and Pepe's brother pulled up in the car. they had a look on their face that was saying, "What is the crazy gringo doing now?" but that's not what Pepe said to me: "Why are using spray paint in the wind? You're losing lots of paint! How much did you spend on that spray paint?" Learning #10: don't spray paint in an open windy area.
Pepe's brother took Ashanti's spray can from her and was trying to help me, showing me the proper way to spray. Tape was coming off everywhere, the flimsy structure was falling over, the spray cans were nearly empty, and there was still a big brown spot. I dragged the structure back to the house and made a dash to the hardware store. I was not giving up yet! If I only had better tape and better paint! Should I spend more money on this "sinking" project? Learning #11: All hardware stores in town are closed after 6:00. Learning #12: only hardware stores sell paint and duct tape. Learning #13: don't forget "learning #5."
It was 6:45. It was time to admit defeat and apologize to Ashanti and Luisa for letting them down. Luisa and Magdalena were now back from the party. Luisa, who had been sick for two weeks, had earlier in the day declared herself "better." However, when she opened her mouth to speak, she was very hoarse and could barely talk. I guess she wasn't as good as she thought and I guess she should've have walked back all that way. Not to mention all the sugar she had at the party. Learning #14: Take it easy when you're on the road to recovery.
Boy, was I happy to get that day over with. That's enough learning for one day. Luisa ended up being too sick to go, and Ashanti didn't want to participate without a boat. At least I didn't use the blue paint. I can always take that back and get my money back, which is where I headed the next day. Learning #15: This hardware store only refunds your money if you return it the same day you purchased it.
Around noon, Luisa and Magdalena were invited to Nora's 9 year old birthday party. Nora is the only other "volunteer child." The party was at 3:30. Birthday parties trump all, especially in Luisa's world. Teresa was currently the sickest of us all (in a two week family bout of bad coughs and cold) and was out of the parenting picture. So, it was up to me to help get the girls to the party. The invitation had the address on it, but it was illegible to us. We went to the volunteer office when it reopened at 2:00, to get help on figuring out where Nora's host family lives. Judy, the office secretary, had hand delivered the invitation, so she was our best bet. There are no numbered street addresses here. Since this is a small town where "everyone knows everyone," what's most important is name of the "head male" of the house. The invitation had the name of the cross streets and a landmark, but not the name of the head male. All we had to do now was get a taxi, show the name, and for one dollar, they will take you there. Learning #1: All you need is the family name for directions.
On the way back I went to reserve the tandem. However and went to take pictures of fishing boats, all of which are white with a light aqua trim. I had originally thought of painting the boat whatever color, but Yolanda, the family matriarch, said that if it was a fishing boat it had to be white with blue. Learning #2: fishing boats are white with blue trim. You can't paint it any other colors.
I then stopped at a store that had a lot of crushed cardboard boxes in their front window and brought them back to the house. I then went to the hardware store to buy white paint, blue paint, and good tape. Many stores here have everything behind the counter, especially hardware stores, pharmacies and school supply stores. So, when going to stores you really need to know the vocabulary of what you want, because you can't just go around and "shop." I decided to get 2 cans of white spray paint, because that would be a short cut. A liter of blue paint was actually cheaper than a can of spray paint. I decided not to get duct tape because that was $13 a roll. Clear packing tape was much cheaper (less than $2). My total for this project was around $13. Not bad, I thought. I went to pay and the woman said she needed my passport number. Why? Learning #3: you need a passport when you buy spray paint.
After returning from the hardware store for the second time, the girls were ready with the standard Dutchersmith present of nose flute and one of our CDs. They were frantically trying to finish a knitted gift bag, but ran out of time. "We can give it to her later" Luisa said. We walked down the street and I flagged a taxi. There are many taxis around town, and I think we know three taxi drivers by name. It just so happened that one of these 3 stopped to pick us up. It was Manuel from the indigenous band I've been playing with! He didn't actually know who Oscar Puga (head of house) was, but he did know the cross streets. He took us to the place, I stayed a bit to chat and to take a few pictures of the "party room" which was decorated to the hilt with streamers and balloons dangling from the ceiling. I the walked home, probably about a half mile. Learning #4: Learning #1 sometimes doesn't work, so make sure you know the cross streets of where you are going.
When I came back home, I realized that I was already running out of steam and the project hadn't even started yet! So, I took a coffee break. It wasn't really until 4:00 that Ashanti and I started on the project. Learning #5: Projects always take longer than I think, especially when in another culture.
So, we laid out boxes and started making Ashanti's boat. After much taping and piecing things together, I had learned two more things. Learning #6: boxes that have been used to ship things half way around the world are not very sturdy and bend too much. Learning #7: Duct tape is the best tape in the world and if you want to build a boat out of cardboard, and other tape won't work.
Even though I was beginning to feel as though this boat project might not "float," I pressed onward mostly because I don't like letting 11 year old children down. We started pushing through "support sticks" that were to keep the frame up and off the rider. It was looking more and more flimsy by the minute. I still wasn't exactly sure how I would be able to support the whole thing on the bike without it rubbing the rider, not to mention the problem of what happens when you steer the thing if one of the support structures is the handlebars. (Re)learning #8: I'm not as handy as I think I am.
Nevertheless, I pressed onward! Time to paint! Ashanti and I took the flimsy boat out near the road where we would be sure not to spray paint onto other things. I have a lot of experience with brushing on house paint. Not so much with spray paint. Learning #9: If you want a nice thick coat of paint, don't use spray paint.
Just then Pepe and Yolanda (the heads of our house), and Pepe's brother pulled up in the car. they had a look on their face that was saying, "What is the crazy gringo doing now?" but that's not what Pepe said to me: "Why are using spray paint in the wind? You're losing lots of paint! How much did you spend on that spray paint?" Learning #10: don't spray paint in an open windy area.
Pepe's brother took Ashanti's spray can from her and was trying to help me, showing me the proper way to spray. Tape was coming off everywhere, the flimsy structure was falling over, the spray cans were nearly empty, and there was still a big brown spot. I dragged the structure back to the house and made a dash to the hardware store. I was not giving up yet! If I only had better tape and better paint! Should I spend more money on this "sinking" project? Learning #11: All hardware stores in town are closed after 6:00. Learning #12: only hardware stores sell paint and duct tape. Learning #13: don't forget "learning #5."
It was 6:45. It was time to admit defeat and apologize to Ashanti and Luisa for letting them down. Luisa and Magdalena were now back from the party. Luisa, who had been sick for two weeks, had earlier in the day declared herself "better." However, when she opened her mouth to speak, she was very hoarse and could barely talk. I guess she wasn't as good as she thought and I guess she should've have walked back all that way. Not to mention all the sugar she had at the party. Learning #14: Take it easy when you're on the road to recovery.
Boy, was I happy to get that day over with. That's enough learning for one day. Luisa ended up being too sick to go, and Ashanti didn't want to participate without a boat. At least I didn't use the blue paint. I can always take that back and get my money back, which is where I headed the next day. Learning #15: This hardware store only refunds your money if you return it the same day you purchased it.
Friday, November 14, 2014
A visit to the hospital (Teresa)
Don't be shocked or overly concerned by the title of this post! "Going to the hospital" here is the equivalent of "going to the doctor's office" for us. And we'd been receiving encouragement to go to the hospital ever since we began to cough two weeks ago. We explained, over and over, that at home we don't go to the hospital until we're nearly dead, in the case if an emergency, or for surgery. Meanwhile various member of our host family were going to the hospital for everything from diabetes care, to morning sickness, to a slight fever.
So, yesterday afternoon when Yolanda "caught" me having a major coughing attack, she said it's time to go. And Kent, who has recovered well from his cough, agreed that we three females need to get checked out. We gathered our passports and headed out to see the newly opened hospital (replacing the old one). Did we need to take money or insurance papers? Nope, it's all free!
We arrived by car through the main gate, passing the two guards in empty parking lot, at the ER entrance. There sat a beautiful new ambulance, with driver in place, ready to take off toward an emergency. But, everything was quiet. Before going inside, Yolanda explained to me that I needed to exaggerate my symptoms so that they would see me at the ER. (If they sent us to the main entrance we would wait longer.) I didn't mind pushing my way in, since no one else was waiting for care! No emergencies in sight, and several young doctors and nurses in clean uniforms were milling about with nothing to do. We were taken into a triage room where they took vitals, and asked several questions about our overall health status and current syptoms. They were befuddled by why we had waited two weeks before coming to the hospital.
The diagnosis? Our lungs are clear, no infections, but we seem to have an allergic reaction to something here. So we proceeded to another part of the hospital, to the pharmacy, to receive an antihistamine. (Leaving the ER we passed the ambulance again, driver still ready.) We were also prescribed another med, a combination pain reliever (for throat and head aches) and decongestant. And, we should be gargling with baking soda. On the way home we stopped at another pharmacy for these items--baking soda is sold at the pharmacy rather than the grocery store--for a total of $18.
It was very interesting to experience the local, new hospital, and the young female doctors. (We only saw females....I imagine they also train males!) The construction of this larger hospital, with the promise of modern equipment and specialty care, has created a fair amount of excitement here. Until now, folks have had to travel to the mainland (Quito or Guayaquil) for specialty care and surgeries. And, for us as foreigners, it was exciting to read the "patient rights" posted throughout the building which declared that each person has the right to free, quality healthcare, regardless of gender, age, race, nationality, disabilities, sexual orientation, or socio-economic level.
So, yesterday afternoon when Yolanda "caught" me having a major coughing attack, she said it's time to go. And Kent, who has recovered well from his cough, agreed that we three females need to get checked out. We gathered our passports and headed out to see the newly opened hospital (replacing the old one). Did we need to take money or insurance papers? Nope, it's all free!
We arrived by car through the main gate, passing the two guards in empty parking lot, at the ER entrance. There sat a beautiful new ambulance, with driver in place, ready to take off toward an emergency. But, everything was quiet. Before going inside, Yolanda explained to me that I needed to exaggerate my symptoms so that they would see me at the ER. (If they sent us to the main entrance we would wait longer.) I didn't mind pushing my way in, since no one else was waiting for care! No emergencies in sight, and several young doctors and nurses in clean uniforms were milling about with nothing to do. We were taken into a triage room where they took vitals, and asked several questions about our overall health status and current syptoms. They were befuddled by why we had waited two weeks before coming to the hospital.
The diagnosis? Our lungs are clear, no infections, but we seem to have an allergic reaction to something here. So we proceeded to another part of the hospital, to the pharmacy, to receive an antihistamine. (Leaving the ER we passed the ambulance again, driver still ready.) We were also prescribed another med, a combination pain reliever (for throat and head aches) and decongestant. And, we should be gargling with baking soda. On the way home we stopped at another pharmacy for these items--baking soda is sold at the pharmacy rather than the grocery store--for a total of $18.
It was very interesting to experience the local, new hospital, and the young female doctors. (We only saw females....I imagine they also train males!) The construction of this larger hospital, with the promise of modern equipment and specialty care, has created a fair amount of excitement here. Until now, folks have had to travel to the mainland (Quito or Guayaquil) for specialty care and surgeries. And, for us as foreigners, it was exciting to read the "patient rights" posted throughout the building which declared that each person has the right to free, quality healthcare, regardless of gender, age, race, nationality, disabilities, sexual orientation, or socio-economic level.
Cultural differences and understanding (Kent)
We're often asked questions like: "So what are you doing here? Why are you here?" I guess there are several answers to those types of questions. We want to learn Spanish better. We want to learn about and from other cultures. We want to do volunteer work. We want a break from our North American lives, routines and stresses. However, for me, I'm beginning to realize that it can be boiled down to "understanding." Understanding myself better by understanding others who are coming from a completely different cultural context. I am trying hard not to be judgmental or critical of these differences. However, Teresa has helped me realize that we are now at a stage of life where we do have life experiences and expertise that can help us to look critically at cultural differences and even have conversations with others about these differences.
One thing that makes it easy to have these conversations with our host family is that they are very experienced at hosting volunteers and students from other countries--particularly from Europe and North America. They are very gracious when it comes to our differences and misunderstandings. In fact, "grace," I would say is part of the culture here, as is evidenced in the frequency of words/phrases such as "tranquilo" (calm/no worries/laid back), "no importa" (not important), "no te preocupes" (don't worry about it), and "Está bien" (that's fine).
Our family knows that there will be some foods that we just can't quite stomach. When "guatita" (cow intestine stew served with rice), our family served us very small "sample" bowls, knowing that we most likely wouldn't eat it. How did they know that we wouldn't like it? In their many years of hosting international volunteers, no foreigner has ever been able to have more than one bite, including us. "Está bien. No importa." Yolanda said with a smile and served us the "foreigner plate" that they had prepared for us (meat, rice, plátanos and salad). Similarly, when we were served "sopa de pata" (cow hoof soup), none of us were able to eat the cross section of cow hoof sitting squarely in the middle of our bowls, but most of us were able to eat the rest of the soup, which had a rich broth. "Está bien. No importa." Overall, we have eaten most things served to us. I think it's important to try as much as possible (I have eaten lobster, octopus and conch, all for the first time) but these two things we simply could not stomach, and we were received with grace.
Noise is another area of cultural difference. I suffer from occasional headaches, some of which last more than 24 hours. Saturday night night was one of those nights where I had a headache all night long despite the fact that I took the maximum recommended dose of ibuprofen. When we went to Catholic mass the next morning my headache was almost gone. During the first song, however, someone apparently thought that the volume of the praise band was not loud enough and cranked it up past what we would call "unhealthy levels." Teresa and I looked at each other, and I said "I need to get out of here because this noise level is aggravating my headache." I looked around at everyone else. No one seemed to flinch or be bothered by the sudden volume surge. For the rest of the service, I sat outside for the music, which was still plenty loud, and came in for the spoken parts. In the mornings we are often awakened by the many sounds of the early morning (6:00 a.m. or earlier): roosters, conversations in the kitchen, the tamal man yelling "tamales!!!!!" while honking his horn, and Navy men jogging through the streets loudly chanting. These are normal sounds that people here are just used to, just like we in Goshen are used to the 80-100 trains that rumble and blare their way through town every day. I must be adjusting to the morning noises because I can now go back to sleep as the roosters crow.
Classroom management (educational jargon for "discipline") has probably been one of my biggest challenges with regards to cultural differences. In the preschool where we teach music, the 4 and 5 year old classes have been especially challenging at times. There are so many cultural factors at play at once. Because of the mild climate, windows are always open, and many classrooms don't have complete walls that go from the floor to the ceiling. Recess is right outside the classrooms with many children screaming with joy that they are free to run around. Teachers and parents come in and out regularly talking very loudly (or talk directly through open windows). The other teachers seem to be used to these noises and interruptions, but to us it's very distracting and seems to affect the classroom management.
Another major classroom management difference involves behavioral management. In North America, educators have been taught to talk to children about problems and work at resolving the problems by getting to the underlying issue, working particularly with children to help them change their behavior over the long term. Here in the preschool, children don't respond well to this probably because they have not been taught to do it. When I've tried this approach, usually children run away and/or refuse to talk. What some teachers do is yank a child to the place they need to be or yank them to a timeout. In the North American context, this would be illegal and would be seen as abuse. It is also viewed as a short term solution. Threats are also used. One teacher uses the threat of calling the police for a noncompliant child, which usually gets him to submit for the time being, but again it's a short-term solution. A lack of resources does play a role in all of this too. Most teachers here work very hard, but when the education system has less financial resources and less professional support, it usually means that teachers work with more students (many of whom have special needs) and have less tools and resources with which to work with these students.
I have had some conversations with Luis, PE teacher at the preschool (he just has the kindergarten classes, and then goes to several other schools). We have break time together at the school and we always have good conversations. He's asked me about how we do classroom management in the states because he feels as though this is an area with which schools need to improve. However, with most teachers I don't have an opportunity to talk with them in depth. Our music classes are back-to-back without time in between. So, I have decided to experiment with different techniques that I feel good about (and that don't involve yanking). When I find that they work, I use them over and over again, hoping that it can be a model to teachers as an alternative. For example, I often use "positive reinforcement" which involves complimenting children who are doing the right thing, which usually has a positive "ripple effect." Children usually respond well to this because most children appreciate being recognized and affirmed.
I certainly don't have all the answers, especially with regards to complex issues such as classroom management and cultural differences. However, a benefit of living and teaching in another cultural context is that while the learning curve seems steep, there is a lot of learning going on, both on our part and hopefully with others with whom we are in contact. I value this opportunity for greater understanding.
One thing that makes it easy to have these conversations with our host family is that they are very experienced at hosting volunteers and students from other countries--particularly from Europe and North America. They are very gracious when it comes to our differences and misunderstandings. In fact, "grace," I would say is part of the culture here, as is evidenced in the frequency of words/phrases such as "tranquilo" (calm/no worries/laid back), "no importa" (not important), "no te preocupes" (don't worry about it), and "Está bien" (that's fine).
Our family knows that there will be some foods that we just can't quite stomach. When "guatita" (cow intestine stew served with rice), our family served us very small "sample" bowls, knowing that we most likely wouldn't eat it. How did they know that we wouldn't like it? In their many years of hosting international volunteers, no foreigner has ever been able to have more than one bite, including us. "Está bien. No importa." Yolanda said with a smile and served us the "foreigner plate" that they had prepared for us (meat, rice, plátanos and salad). Similarly, when we were served "sopa de pata" (cow hoof soup), none of us were able to eat the cross section of cow hoof sitting squarely in the middle of our bowls, but most of us were able to eat the rest of the soup, which had a rich broth. "Está bien. No importa." Overall, we have eaten most things served to us. I think it's important to try as much as possible (I have eaten lobster, octopus and conch, all for the first time) but these two things we simply could not stomach, and we were received with grace.
Noise is another area of cultural difference. I suffer from occasional headaches, some of which last more than 24 hours. Saturday night night was one of those nights where I had a headache all night long despite the fact that I took the maximum recommended dose of ibuprofen. When we went to Catholic mass the next morning my headache was almost gone. During the first song, however, someone apparently thought that the volume of the praise band was not loud enough and cranked it up past what we would call "unhealthy levels." Teresa and I looked at each other, and I said "I need to get out of here because this noise level is aggravating my headache." I looked around at everyone else. No one seemed to flinch or be bothered by the sudden volume surge. For the rest of the service, I sat outside for the music, which was still plenty loud, and came in for the spoken parts. In the mornings we are often awakened by the many sounds of the early morning (6:00 a.m. or earlier): roosters, conversations in the kitchen, the tamal man yelling "tamales!!!!!" while honking his horn, and Navy men jogging through the streets loudly chanting. These are normal sounds that people here are just used to, just like we in Goshen are used to the 80-100 trains that rumble and blare their way through town every day. I must be adjusting to the morning noises because I can now go back to sleep as the roosters crow.
Classroom management (educational jargon for "discipline") has probably been one of my biggest challenges with regards to cultural differences. In the preschool where we teach music, the 4 and 5 year old classes have been especially challenging at times. There are so many cultural factors at play at once. Because of the mild climate, windows are always open, and many classrooms don't have complete walls that go from the floor to the ceiling. Recess is right outside the classrooms with many children screaming with joy that they are free to run around. Teachers and parents come in and out regularly talking very loudly (or talk directly through open windows). The other teachers seem to be used to these noises and interruptions, but to us it's very distracting and seems to affect the classroom management.
Another major classroom management difference involves behavioral management. In North America, educators have been taught to talk to children about problems and work at resolving the problems by getting to the underlying issue, working particularly with children to help them change their behavior over the long term. Here in the preschool, children don't respond well to this probably because they have not been taught to do it. When I've tried this approach, usually children run away and/or refuse to talk. What some teachers do is yank a child to the place they need to be or yank them to a timeout. In the North American context, this would be illegal and would be seen as abuse. It is also viewed as a short term solution. Threats are also used. One teacher uses the threat of calling the police for a noncompliant child, which usually gets him to submit for the time being, but again it's a short-term solution. A lack of resources does play a role in all of this too. Most teachers here work very hard, but when the education system has less financial resources and less professional support, it usually means that teachers work with more students (many of whom have special needs) and have less tools and resources with which to work with these students.
I have had some conversations with Luis, PE teacher at the preschool (he just has the kindergarten classes, and then goes to several other schools). We have break time together at the school and we always have good conversations. He's asked me about how we do classroom management in the states because he feels as though this is an area with which schools need to improve. However, with most teachers I don't have an opportunity to talk with them in depth. Our music classes are back-to-back without time in between. So, I have decided to experiment with different techniques that I feel good about (and that don't involve yanking). When I find that they work, I use them over and over again, hoping that it can be a model to teachers as an alternative. For example, I often use "positive reinforcement" which involves complimenting children who are doing the right thing, which usually has a positive "ripple effect." Children usually respond well to this because most children appreciate being recognized and affirmed.
I certainly don't have all the answers, especially with regards to complex issues such as classroom management and cultural differences. However, a benefit of living and teaching in another cultural context is that while the learning curve seems steep, there is a lot of learning going on, both on our part and hopefully with others with whom we are in contact. I value this opportunity for greater understanding.
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